If there are "writers' writers", then there are chefs' chefs. A Meilleur Ouvrier de France, a mainstay of the Ferrandi gastronomy school, promoter of culinary design, restaurateur in Tokyo, Éric Trochon is that sort of chef – admired and yet relatively little known. He and his sommelier wife preside over this elegant, intimate-feeling restaurant with a decor that blends Brazilian rosewood furnishings and paintings and ceramics by a Korean artist. The menu also errs towards minimalism, with on-point proposals including an omakase menu. The dishes showcase modern cuisine with Asian touches, such as fillet of beef with eryngii and shimeji mushrooms, gochujang and bitter Korean salad. Two places with a view into the kitchens are available at the counter.