What was once the locally renowned Thompson's Bakery is now this compact brasserie with stylish monochrome décor and exposed pipework, run by a charming team. The menu is designed for sharing, with heartily sized main courses largely consisting of prime produce like lamb saddle, côte de boeuf or meaty monkfish. The kitchen's pared-back approach frequently pays dividends, thanks to the quality of the ingredients, including less eye-catching elements like the simply delicious beetroot packed with natural flavour.