Kazuhiko Yamashiro moved his restaurant from Tokyo’s Ginza to Kyoto because he wanted to pursue his craft amid the changing pulse of nature. The chef labours over every detail of his appetiser platters to perfectly convey the mood of each season. Arrangements garnished with flowers and leaves evoke childhood memories of Japan’s traditional scenery. Mackerel sushi, a go-to choice at Hakuzan, is emblematic of Kyoto. Takikomi gohan, rice cooked and seasoned with a variety of ingredients, delights the diner with two varieties.