In his early days as a cook, Nobuhisa Yoshida learned a freewheeling approach not beholden to any particular format, so the sensibilities of both French and Japanese cuisine play their parts in his menus. Steamed fish with grated turnip, chub mackerel sushi and rice cooked on a traditional stove called an okudosan (or kamado) are Kyoto to the hilt. French ideas are evidenced in abalone foie gras and black soybean Mont Blanc. This conversation between two food cultures results in an eclectic blend.