For some, Hanoi is where history and modernity intertwine, where the streets hum with life, and every dish tells a story. For Hoang Tung, the Hanoian chef behind the 2024 MICHELIN-listed T.U.N.G dining and Å by T.U.N.G, it’s more than home—it’s a wellspring of inspiration.
"Hanoi is soulful, vibrant, and timeless," he says. "It embraces both tradition and ambition, and that’s exactly what I bring into my cooking."
Chef Tung of the MICHELIN-listed T.U.N.G Dining in Hanoi and Å by T.U.N.G in Ho Chi Minh City. (© Linh Pham/ MICHELIN Guide Vietnam)
Since returning in 2018 after years in Finland, Tung has watched Hanoi’s culinary scene transform. "When I started, tasting menus were unheard of. Now, the city is hungry for innovation, and I’m proud to be part of that."
"Hanoi has taught me resilience, creativity, and the beauty of simplicity," he reflects. "It thrives on chaotic energy yet holds deep traditions—from street vendors to ancient temples. It’s a city where you can slurp pho on a plastic stool one moment and sip a crafted cocktail in a sleek bar the next. That duality fuels my cooking."
But what fuels Tung when he’s not using tweezers to refine his modern take on pho?
Here, the vivacious Hanoian shares his favourite spots to experience the soul of Hanoi.
For a Vietnamese meal: A Bản Mountain Dew
“I like that they focus on northern Vietnamese flavours and their ability to elevate traditional dishes while staying true to the essence of the cuisine. Every dish is authentic, and the quality of ingredients and precision in execution are top-notch—that’s something I appreciate. A Bản’s approach is an example of how Vietnamese cuisine can be both comforting and sophisticated.”Chef Pham Viet’s northwestern Vietnam roots inspire the lush garden and colourful dining room. The menu blends Mong, Tay, Muong, and Tai dishes with rare ingredients like snake, horse, buffalo, and carp for a unique experience.
76 Tran Phu Street, Dien Bien Ward, Ba Dinh District, Hanoi.
(© Michelin)
For people-watching: Hoan Kiem Lake
"I find inspiration sitting by the water in this living snapshot of culture, community, and continuity. It’s a great spot for observation and reflection. You have a front-row seat to Hanoi’s dynamic pulse—from locals practising morning tai chi to tourists photographing Ngoc Son Temple and vendors weaving through the crowd. It’s just so vibrant."Hoan Kiem Lake is Hanoi’s most iconic spot—steeped in history and buzzing with daily life. Once called Luc Thuy (Emerald Lake) and Thuy Quan (Naval Lake), it was renamed in the 15th century when King Le Thai To returned a magical sword to a turtle deity. Today, it’s where couples stroll, elders practise tai chi, and locals work out or simply unwind by the water.
Hoan Kiem District, Hanoi.
(© Shutterstock)
For a true street food experience: Phở bò Ấu Triệu
“I come [to Phở bò Ấu Triệu] repeatedly for two reasons: consistency and nostalgia. Each bowl has impeccable taste, a rare reliability that never falters. As a Hanoian, pho is more than food, it’s also a connection to my roots. The familiar scents and sounds of Phở Bò Ấu Triệu remind me of childhood and family gatherings at home.”No sign, no fuss—just good old pho. Phở Bò Ấu Triệu, a MICHELIN Bib Gourmand-recognised, four-generation spot near St. Joseph’s Cathedral, serves up a rich, 10-hour-simmered beef broth that defies Hanoi’s usual clear style. Come early—they close before noon. Peak hours often see both local and international phở lovers waiting five to 10 minutes or perching on tiny stools by the sidewalk, slurping their hot bowls of pho.
34 Au Trieu Street, Hang Trong Ward, Hoan Kiem District, Hanoi.
(© Linh Pham/ MICHELIN Guide Vietnam)
For a drink (or two): Workshop14
“The head mixologist, Richard McDonough, is a master of molecular drinks. The bar's sophisticated yet relaxed ambience makes it a great spot to unwind.”Soft lights, the clink of ice, and the quiet hum of conversation—this is a night in Hanoi at Workshop14. Whether you’re nursing a meticulously crafted cocktail or simply letting the evening stretch on, this is where the city slows, unwinds, and lets you do the same.
6 Ngo 5 Pho Tu Hoa, Quang An, Tay Ho, Hanoi.
(© workshop14.hanoi/ Instagram)
For a romantic dinner: T.U.N.G dining and La Badiane
“If it’s not at T.U.N.G dining, it’s La Badiane. This gem, led by my dear friend Chef Ben [Rascalou], embodies culinary artistry and heartfelt hospitality. The restaurant’s cosy elegance and its French-Vietnamese fusion cuisine make it an ideal romantic retreat.”At TUNG—twisted, unique, natural, gastronomic—Chef Hoang Tung distills his philosophy into a MICHELIN-recognised tasting menu where local produce shines in minimalist, vibrant dishes, each with just a few ingredients yet layered with striking complexity. If it’s French flair you’re after, La Badiane delivers. Named for the star anise that graces every table in a glass jar, this Hanoi gem is helmed by a well-travelled French chef whose adventurous fusion dishes play with bold flavours and clever textural contrasts. Downstairs, black-and-white tiles and a convivial buzz set the tone, while the more intimate upstairs rooms offer a quieter escape.
2C Quang Trung Street, Hang Trong Ward, Hoan Kiem District, Hanoi.
10 Nam Ngu Street, Cua Nam Ward, Hoan Kiem District, Hanoi.
(© Huyen/La Badiane)
For inspiration: The French Quarter
“I just love the French Quarter. Its wide boulevards, colonial architecture, and tree-lined streets feel like a nod to elegance amid Hanoi’s bustles. It is where I’ve placed T.U.N.G dining, and it inspires me with its mix of history and sophistication. The area pulses with a cosmopolitan energy that matches our creative approach to food. In a city where finding parking can feel like a small victory, our location is just perfect.”A century ago, the French mapped out Hanoi’s French Quarter, but the city has since reshaped it in its own image. Motorbikes weave through traffic, coffee shops spill onto pavements, and a lively energy fills the orderly European blueprint. The district is now a dining hotspot, with nearly a third of Hanoi’s MICHELIN-recognised restaurants found here. Family-run eateries, experimental bistros, and global imports ensure a great meal is never far away. While the quarter wraps around the Old Quarter, this guide focuses on the grid south of Hoan Kiem Lake, home to Hanoi’s grandest hotels, including the Sofitel Legend Metropole and Capella Hanoi.
1 Trang Tien Street, Hoan Kiem District, Hanoi.
(© Shutterstock)
For the best non-Vietnamese restaurant in Hanoi: Hibana by KOKI
"What draws me back is the theatrical precision of Chef Hiroshi Yamaguchi’s cooking. He uses premium ingredients like Yaeyama Kyori beef and Hokkaido hairy crab, flown in from Japan twice weekly. I’m impressed by his innovative approach, which marries traditional teppanyaki with a modern flair. The consistency of quality, the rich, complex flavours, and the personal engagement with the chef make it unforgettable."Tucked beneath the opulent Capella Hanoi Hotel, Vietnam’s first Japanese MICHELIN Star restaurant offers a front-row seat to culinary theatre. At the intimate 14-seat counter, Chef Hiroshi Yamaguchi orchestrates a teppanyaki experience that is equal parts precision and indulgence. Twice a week, the finest ingredients—Hokkaido hairy crab, Yaeyama Kyori beef, spiny lobster—arrive fresh from Japan, ensuring that every dish is a study in decadence, every bite a testament to craftsmanship. From the moment guests step inside to their final farewell, they are wrapped in an experience as polished as the cuisine itself.
Basement 1, Capella, 11 Le Phung Hieu Street, Trang Tien Ward, Hoan Kiem District, Hanoi.
READ: Where to Stay in Hanoi?
(© Hibana by Koki)
For an unforgettable Hanoian night: 21Gam
“I recommend 21Gam for a truly memorable night in Hanoi. It’s a dynamic spot with great tunes that keep the energy high from start to finish. I love coming here for a bottle of whisky, savouring the lively melodies, and spending time with friends.”For those who appreciate crafted cocktails, 21Gam in Hanoi is your spot. Take your time, sip the wine, soak in the stories, and let the ambience of the intimate, inviting bar in the city's heart envelop you. Beyond the drinks, the bar offers events that add a unique flair—like drag performances from Wet Dynasty—and more surprises to keep an eye out for.
26 P. Truong Han Sieu, Tran Hung Dao, Hoan Kiem District, Hanoi.
(© 21Gam of Hanoi/ Instagram)
For a late-night meal: Tong Duy Tan Street
“I’d take my friends to Tong Duy Tan Street, a popular gourmet area in Hanoi. There’s a fantastic spot where you can enjoy delicious stir-fried rice with prawns, ribs, and a brain omelette. The food is always fresh, flavourful, and perfectly satisfying after a long night. It’s a great place to end the night with friends, enjoy hearty dishes, and soak in the local food culture at any hour.”Hanoi's Tong Duy Tan Street has long been a haven for food lovers, a modest stretch lined with outdoor stalls, plastic stools, and low tables serving up simple yet satisfying dishes. Recently, the street has undergone a transformation, with infrastructure improvements and a touch of artistic flair, elevating it into a more refined culinary destination without losing its humble charm.
Tong Duy Tan Street, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi.
READ FURTHER: Where to Eat and Stay in Hanoi's French Quarter
Illustration image: © Linh Pham/ MICHELIN Guide Vietnam
Illustration image: © Linh Pham/ MICHELIN Guide Vietnam
