Amidst the bustling atmosphere of the first ever MICHELIN Guide Award Ceremony & Gala Dinner in Hanoi in June 2023, a determined young chef gazed intently upon a beautifully plated dish, while his dedicated culinary team added one of the final touches by meticulously placing herbs atop a delicate layer of distinctive Vietnamese noodle sheets using tweezers. His posture is calm, yet his mind raced a thousand miles a minute as runners impatiently waited to pick up and serve the first amuse-bouches to hungry diners.
Hoang Tung has garnered recognition from both his peers and diners for seamlessly blending Nordic influences, where he honed his culinary skills, with his Vietnamese roots. The result is a collection of exquisite dishes bursting with flavours as he fearlessly pushes boundaries. While consistently at the forefront of innovation, like many Hanoians, he grew up savouring the comforting and hearty simplicity of the traditional dish – pho.
T.U.N.G Dining, a 25-seat Nordic-style restaurant in the heart of Hanoi and a MICHELIN-recommended establishment, encapsulates Chef Tung's culinary philosophy through the playful acronym TUNG—standing for twisted, unique, natural, and gastronomic. His iconic reinterpretation of pho was showcased at the gala dinner on that starry night, evoking a resounding 'wow' from diners who lavished the chef with compliments throughout the evening.
Becoming T.U.N.G Dining’s Pho
Pho has become an emblem of Chef Tung’s cultural identity. "Every spoonful of pho takes me on a journey, connecting me to the traditions and customs that have been passed down through generations," says the chef."During the summer of 2021, I invited my friends to have pho for breakfast, but my best friend turned me down, citing that pho isn't ideal to consume in the heat," the 30-year-old chef explains.
That very question ignited the concept of creating pho that is suitable for savouring even during scorching hot weather. And the rest is history.
Chef Tung’s ambition is to challenge the perception of pho. “When people think of pho, they immediately associate it with hot broth. I wanted to surprise them by creating a cold rendition of pho while still capturing the explosive flavours of its delicious broth. That’s why I conceptualised ‘Thach Pho,' with ‘Thach’ in Vietnamese meaning both jelly and precious gemstone.”
He shares his inspiration, "I was inspired to create a cold amuse-bouche based on pho that is not only creative but also mind-bending." He wanted to take the world-renowned traditional flavours of pho and transform them into an artistic jelly, delivering a refreshing and completely surprising experience for diners.
The goal? Imagine a pho that is not only served chilled but that, at first glance, resembles gazing at a translucent gemstone containing an array of flavours and a smooth texture. “I just want to push the boundaries of culinary artistry and create a dish that challenges the senses and leaves an impression on all who taste it.”
And he did just that.
Science behind T.U.N.G Dining’s Pho
The key to the success of this revolutionary pho lies in its element of surprise through a mind game, a clever technique the chef takes pride in. He takes joy as the dish is unveiled before diners, triggering a cascade of questions in their minds and prompting them to ponder why a traditional dish of Vietnam has taken such a unique form.T.U.N.G Dining's pho has undergone three rounds of meticulous R & D to achieve its current version. The result is a stunning composition of three layers of flavours carefully arranged within an 8x8 cm square. The first layer features a foundation of pho noodle sheets, elevated by a velvety coating of fermented green chilli sauce. The second layer presents a paper-thin slice of A5 Kagoshima Wagyu gooseneck, lightly torched to enhance its beefy flavour, sourced from Japan. The third layer on top introduces a delicate jelly derived from a consommé infused with Sá Sùng, also known as peanut worms—an esteemed and luxurious local delicacy hailing from Quang Ninh in Northeastern Vietnam.
Secrets to his signature dish
As Judith B. Jones says, “Cooking demands attention, patience, and above all, a respect for the gifts of the earth. It is a form of worship, a way of giving thanks.” Whether it's on the street or in a fine-dining establishment, the biggest secret to a good pho lies in its broth.It has been the grandest challenge Chef Tung has faced during the dish's creation. As pho broth includes many ingredients and different cooking processes, the Vietnamese chef explains that even a slight change in any ingredient can alter the final results.
He has encountered situations involving the use of different bones, coriander seeds sourced from distinct suppliers or regions, or the absence of seasonal vegetables on various occasions. The process is painstaking for the chef, demanding significant effort to maintain the consistency of the broth – the very soul of the dish.
“We devote three days to prepare the broth, attaining purity, and infusing it with the umami touch from dried sea worms,” says the chef. The opulent sea worms undergo a 29-hour simmering process to achieve a golden hue infused with an umami essence.
To achieve a crystal-clear broth, the culinary magician uses a centrifuge to craft a clear consommé for his transcendent pho jelly, which holds a captivating sheen that sparkles once delicately placed atop the pho cube – the final touch that celebrates Vietnam through the unique perspective of Chef Hoang Tung.
Illustration image: © Linh Pham/ MICHELIN Guide Vietnam
