Think pho’s the only thing to slurp on in Vietnam? Think again. Mien luon — or eel noodles — is a regional favorite in Nghe An province. Packed with flavor and tender freshwater eel, the humble hero has slithered its way north to become a beloved culinary gem in Hanoi and beyond.
To prepare the dish, small, field-caught eels are salted to strip away any slime and odor, then cleaned and chopped. Each piece is coated in a seasoned flour mix and deep-fried until golden and crisp.
The broth, meanwhile, is slow-simmered with pork and eel bones and a blend of aromatic spices, building layers of rich, savory depth.
Just before serving, Vermicelli noodles are blanched in the broth, nestled into a bowl, and topped with the crispy eel. A generous handful of fresh chives, a final pour of piping hot broth, and a dash of pepper and chili form the final flourish.
What makes eel noodles unique?
Chef Quang Dung of the 2024 MICHELIN-selected fine dining restaurant Chapter in Hanoi is a long-time fan of eel noodles, enjoying the dish at least once a week.“Eel noodles are fascinating,” he says. “They’re incredibly versatile, with three distinct versions: soup, dry, and stir-fried. The soup version is the most traditional — vermicelli served in a rich, slow-cooked broth made from pork and eel bones, paired with bean sprouts, shiitake and wood ear mushrooms, and a touch of Vietnamese coriander.
“It’s all in the textures and contrast — the crispness of deep-fried eel, the silky softness of noodles, the gentle sweetness of sprouts, and the aromatic lift of fresh herbs.”
The dry version offers a different charm. The vermicelli is blanched to perfection, retaining a chewy, slightly crunchy texture. It is topped with crispy deep-fried shredded eel and served with a sweet-and-sour sauce. A delicious dry vermicelli bowl often includes cucumber, bean sprouts, perilla, basil, mint, roasted peanuts, and fried shallots.
Lastly, stir-fried eel noodles are perfect for those who love the smoky aroma of wok-fried dishes. Bold, fragrant, and packed with umami, this version hits all the right notes.
“Eating eel noodles brings a very special sensation,” adds Dung. “The flavor is rich, thanks to the meticulous marinating and preparation, yet it feels light on the stomach. Eel is a highly digestible protein, and the cellophane noodles are low in starch, making this dish an ideal choice for breakfast or lunch. Especially on Hanoi’s cold winter days, a warm bowl of eel vermicelli is pure comfort.”
Quách Kim Dung, the owner of Miến Lươn Đông Thịnh, a Bib Gourmand eatery and the only eel specialized establishment in Hanoi in the MICHELIN Guide Vietnam 2024, believes that the key to a flavorful bowl of eel noodles lies in how the eel is prepared and how the broth is cooked.
“We source eels from Nghe An and Bac Ninh,” she says. “They must be medium-sized, with smooth skin and rounded bodies — never too big or too small. Once brought in, they’re cleaned and fried until golden brown and fragrant. The result is a satisfyingly crunchy bite that releases a rich, fatty flavor — crispy yet never dry.
“The same goes for the broth, which is slowly simmered from pork bones and eel bones to produce a clear, naturally sweet, and nourishing base that defines the soul of the dish.”
Alongside the classic crispy eel version, diners can also enjoy fresh (soft) eel at Miến Lươn Đông Thịnh, cooked to retain its sweetness and silky texture and fully infused with the depth of the broth. The eel meat is tender and palatable, a perfect option for those who prefer delicate, traditional flavors.
A standout specialty of the restaurant is its eel eggs, available from February to July during the eel’s natural breeding season. During this time, female eels carry rich, golden eggs, and the meat becomes especially fatty and flavorful. Many diners return year after year just to savor this seasonal delicacy - a rare treat worth the wait.
Where to find the eel noodles?
Miến Lươn Đông Thịnh
Bib Gourmand, MICHELIN Guide Vietnam 2024At this 40-plus-year-old Hanoi institution, eel takes center stage in everything from eel noodle soup to eel congee. The rice vermicelli comes two ways — swimming in a fragrant broth or tossed dry with crispy shredded eel, fresh herbs, toasted peanuts, and golden shallots. If you crave something even richer, their congee is packed with umami thanks to shredded pork sausage and shiitake mushrooms.
Address: 87 Hang Dieu Street, Cua Dong Ward, Hoan Kiem District, Hanoi, Vietnam.
Illustration image: © Michelin
