Travel writers tend towards hype – timeless cultures, ultimate relaxation, sumptuous cuisine – but in Bangkok, it often reaches a fever pitch of adjectives. Yet in the Si Lom-Sathon area, it sometimes feels hard to call this an exaggeration – the city’s chaotic, polychrome, and proudly hedonistic energy is on full display. This is peak Bangkok.
Having been developed in the late 19th century for a mixture of wealthy Thais and foreign dignitaries, the area has always been international, hosting gem merchants, Cold War spies, infamous gangsters, and renowned authors. And as is so often the case, the mingling of ideas has bred openness – it birthed the city’s nightlife scene, has been a major locus of culinary and artistic invention, and continues, arguably, to be one of the most liberal-minded places on the entire Asian continent, serving as the heart of the city’s LGBT-and-all-the-rest community.
To highlight its diversity, on 18th June 2024, Thailand celebrated Pride Month with a historic step: poised to become the first in Southeast Asia to legalise same-sex marriage. The kingdom’s Senate passed a marriage equality bill with overwhelming support, hailed as a “monumental step forward for LGBTQ+ rights.” With 130 senators in favour and only four opposed, the move underscores a decisive shift towards equality. That night, Bangkok, particularly the communities of Si Lom-Sathon, joyously embraced this milestone.
A quick note: “Si Lom” and “Sathon” are vague and largely overlapping terms, not really mapping onto precise political geography. However, a rough definition can include the many tree-lined side streets coming off of Si Lom and Sathon Roads and the Si Lom BTS Line, between Lumphini Park and the Chao Phraya River.
Hitting the neighbourhood on foot
What to see and do
While much of Bangkok has retreated into the shopping mall, Si Lom and Sathon remain proudly and stubbornly old-downtown in nature – after all, this was Bangkok’s first major commercial district.Start at Lumphini Park, the city’s oldest park and a pet project of King Rama VI, where groups of old folks do their evening tai chi under towering tropical foliage and giant monitor lizards laze around in the ponds. Going west, the main roads are lined with office towers, sure, but also the proud old homes of long-dead aristocrats and tycoons, and Victorian shophouses that continue to house generations-old jewellery businesses and machine shops.
Charming side streets like Pan and Yen Akat Roads house tiny art galleries and boutiques, glass-box cafes, and multi-generational jeweller’s shops that reward foot traffic in a way few other areas of the city do. Each street has its own character – consider the clutch of shops selling flowers and Indian sweets behind the Sri Maha Mariamman Temple at the corner of Si Lom and Pan Roads, or the spooky old cemeteries, both Chinese and Western, that hide behind high walls among overgrown lianas along Si Lom Soi 9.
Enjoy art and artisans
What to see and do
For a glimpse into the city’s art scene, Bangkok CityCity Gallery in Sathon Soi 1 showcases some of Thailand’s most cutting-edge video and performance art, along with an attached bookshop. Meanwhile, the Thailand Cultural and Design Center on Charoen Krung Road hosts rotating exhibits. Nearby, Warehouse 30 is a complex of high-end vintage shops and fashion ateliers, including the Aurum Gallery, owned by the legendary British drum-and-bass musician Goldie.
A dining hub
Where to eat
Of course, eating is Bangkok’s number-one hobby, and the choices are infinite. MICHELIN-Starred venues like the temple of French cuisine Maison Dunand and the innovative Thai chef’s table Samrub Samrub Thai have been the subject of much buzz among the city’s gourmands, but they are far from the only game in the neighbourhood.Other fine-dining hotspots in the area include the Sathon mainstay Eat Me and the restlessly inventive Italian restaurant Clara in Soi Yen Akat. Or, if you wish to opt for extra bougieness, try the two-MICHELIN-Starred Chef's Table or Mezzaluna at Lebua at State Tower, famed for The Hangover II, both offering some of the best views in the city.
Meanwhile, the neighbourhood’s middle classes flock to Bib Gourmand winner Plu off Soi Suan Phlu for refined versions of Thai and Burmese classics, and to Giglio Trattoria Fiorentina on Sathon Soi 12 for cosy Tuscan dishes in an equally cosy setting. Scarlett, located on top of the Pullman G Hotel, is known for its excellent French food (along with one of Bangkok’s best cheese selections), killer views of the city and the river, and a frankly dangerous happy hour.
For a more local, down-to-earth vibe, Charoen Saeng Silom has been renowned for Thai-Chinese braised pork leg at breakfast and lunch for decades, while Somboon Seafood on Surawong Road is the birthplace of pu phat phong kari, the crab curry dish that has become a national favourite.
Grab a drink or two
Where to go
For a pre-dinner drink or a late-night digestivo, Si Lom and Sathon offer a plethora of excellent bars. The Bamboo Bar at the Mandarin Oriental Bangkok, with its jazz band and Merchant-Ivory décor, exudes old-school cool, having been frequented by past patrons such as Louis Armstrong and Audrey Hepburn. Around the corner, Jack’s Bar offers ice-cold drinks on a rustic pier over the river, making it ideal for a sundowner.Smalls on Soi Suan Phlu leads the city’s contemporary jazz scene, offering regular live music and excellent Negronis. Clouds at The Commons Sala Daeng is one of Bangkok’s most exciting natural wine bars, while Mash on Soi Convent boasts a rotating selection of local and international craft beers on tap. Further down Soi Convent, Vesper has established itself as one of Asia’s most progressive cocktail bars, serving Italian bar snacks from a branch of the MICHELIN-listed La Dotta next door. Or why not head to the top of Bangkok, to the tallest building in Thailand, for a sundowner cocktail at Ojo, a MICHELIN restaurant at The Standard Bangkok? They also offer the tallest bar crawl program, which will get you super ready for the night.
For those still seeking excitement before bed, Si Lom Soi 2 and Soi 4 serve as the city’s gay nightlife hub, featuring drag performances, pumping house music, and gin-and-tonics well into the wee hours of the morning.
Pamper yourself at these iconic hotels
Where to stay
To rest one's weary head, an obvious choice is the city’s oldest hotel, the Mandarin Oriental Bangkok, a bastion of Old World charm. Meanwhile, on the Lumphini end of the neighbourhood, Como Metropolitan Bangkok offers an oasis of greenery, while the nearby SO/ Bangkok takes the opposite tack and embraces its urban nature. Alternatively, to truly be at the heart of things while being stylish, The Standard Bangkok is ensconced in the Mahanakhon Tower, Thailand’s tallest building, on Narathiwat Road.Visitors to Bangkok often share photos of gilded temples on one side and towering shopping malls on the other. However, for a quintessential experience – and one the locals know is good – Si Lom and Sathon might be the best bet.
Illustration image: © The Commons Sala Daeng
