Born in 1985 in one of the oldest cities in France along the Mediterranean coastlines, with the Calanques of Marseille and the ever-enthusiastic cheers for Olympique de Marseille as a backdrop, Pierrick Maire couldn’t have enjoyed a simpler and more laid-back life as a Marseillais. He is a Frenchman whose happiness lies not on the football field, but in winning a family gathering to compete for whose food his beloved grandmother would get the biggest nod.
It’s no surprise that his passion for food showed at an early age, as his family saw him as "le petit chef" since he was in his early teens. At 17, he decided to pursue culinary arts. His journey began in a luxury hotel in Saint-Tropez. He then moved across the globe under the leadership of Yannick Alleno to Beijing, followed by refining his skills even further in international cookery while working in Shanghai and Taipei.
Little did he know that life would bring his journey full circle, as this Marseillais finds himself back in a familiar place with a laid-back lifestyle in the warm sunshine of bustling Ho Chi Minh City. Maire is currently the Executive Chef of Truffle, the highest French Contemporary restaurant in Vietnam listed in the MICHELIN Guide Hanoi & Ho Chi Minh City 2023 edition, situated in the iconic Landmark 81.
"As you’d expect, this French restaurant specialises in truffles and offers several tasting menus, all of which feature seasonally sourced fungi from different countries. The large dining area is surrounded by floor-to-ceiling windows that frame exceptional views of the city below – truly breathtaking!," writes our MICHELIN Inspectors.
But one dish that Maire holds close to his heart is the Hokkaido scallop “Godiveau”, served with celery texture, winter black truffle coulis, and champagne – an homage to his dear Mediterranean roots.
"For me, this dish embodies the spirit of Truffle restaurant, which is about using the best ingredients and elegance. It represents the emotions I want to convey to my guests," says Maire.
Becoming the Hokkaido scallop dish
The dish represents, for Maire, the French delicacy at its finest, mixing French tradition, worldwide ingredients, and modern techniques. The etymology of "Godiveau" comes from veal fat, used in making quenelles, pâtés, and farces."During my reflection, I was searching for the most complete combination of tastes and textures: the sweetness of the raw scallop with the earthy flavour of truffle, the mineral and crunchy celery under a rich and buttery 'quenelle', all complemented by a fresh champagne sauce." And thus, Maire's signature dish was born.
“My aim is to revive some childhood memories,” the chef expresses.
The science behind the dish
As the first hot appetiser dish on the menu, the southern Frenchman wanted a comfortable taste and texture, avoiding something too strong or intense to harmoniously respect the menu's chronology.He says the creation process is rather a ritual. "I always try to source the best products and sublimate them. In this case, the Hokkaido scallop is a product that I particularly appreciate for its natural balance, combining iodine and sweetness, as well as its melting texture, which I try to enhance with harmony, elegance, and finesse.”
Secrets to his signature dish
This scallop dish may look very simple, but according to Maire, the complexity and the lingering, comfortable feeling in your mouth are the keys to its success. "The most important thing is creating emotion for our guests; that makes this dish a star," he says.It's the comfort a Marseillais knows best, though amidst the air on the 73rd floor of the tallest and most cutting-edge building in Vietnam, overlooking the astonishing skyscape of Saigon, his simple, true love for cooking and southern hospitality remains – as if he's serving this very dish to a special person somewhere in the French Mediterranean.
Illustration image: © Mervin Lee/ MICHELIN Guide Vietnam
