One Star • High quality cooking, worth a stop
Over 75 USD
Everyone at this inviting space is warmly professional, including the eager, well-paced staff. Add in the mature, stylish crowd, architecturally detailed dining room—a hybrid between your grandmother’s home and an art gallery with its black-and-cream palette, leather banquettes, and vintage chandeliers—and you’ll be counting down the days until your next visit. Small but mighty, this kitchen under the guidance of Chef Teague Moriarty, turns out a seasonal, nine-course fixed menu that consistently pleases. A meal here might begin with an unctuous butternut squash soup garnished with fried salsify; or crunchy asparagus accompanied by gently pickled mushrooms and topped with shaved cured egg yolk. Then a block of exquisitely smooth foie gras is crowned with strawberry purée and fried almonds for a delicious and nutty bite, while crisp bits of lamb are incorporated with minted peas to form a clever counterpoint of sweet and savory flavors. Deep red and juicy cherry ice cream is a sublime dessert. But it is the combination with intensely moist pistachio cake, tart verjus granite, juniper foam, and fresh cherries that showcase the technical prowess of this gifted kitchen.