Two frosted doors mark the entrance to this mighty restaurant that extends well beyond its diminutive name. The stylish entry lounge is an idyllic stop for a glass of bubbly before settling into the laboratory-like dining room. Here, guests are perched at six seats per counter, all set around Chef José Andrés' stainless steel workspace that literally makes his world a stage.This clinical-like décor isn't a coincidence, since the modern cooking is highly experimental (though deftly avoids mad scientist status).

The experienced kitchen team is unabashedly passionate, turning out a menu complete with whimsy and edible creativity. There are those famous liquid olives, of course, as well as meaty morels served with "peas" that are actually "pearls" filled with fragrant pea and mint. "Scrambled Eggs" unveils yuba "egg white" drizzled with a vibrant yellow, cured-yolk sauce, accompanied by a duo of caviar and tiny, toasted croutons. Then a pairing of Hokkaido uni and Spanish jackrabbit broth is as delightfully unorthodox as a dessert of freeze-dried pomelo "cereal"—starring tapioca drenched in creamy, ice-cold coconut milk.

Be sure to head to barmini for a tray of sweets to cap-off the evening.