MICHELIN Guide’s Point Of View
Find this mature, splurge-worthy tasting room beneath its smartly decked out sibling, Kinship. They may share a kitchen and chef/owner, but these are two distinct restaurants. Guests enter Métier via an elevator, which then leads to a second, more sultry lounge. With a fireplace and shelves lined with cookbooks, this is a lovely stop for cocktails and nibbles. One part living room and two parts art gallery, the sleek arena is a spare collection of cloth-robed tables and white walls with paintings here and there. This is one of those few remaining places where jackets are required, so gentlemen, don’t forget to don them! The name, Métier, is defined as an area of expertise, and that proves true in an ambitious menu reflective of Chef Eric Ziebold's experience. The bright, tart and oh-so-French spring garlic bavarois and the asparagus fricassee are signs of the season, while the Great Lakes walleye pike over pine nut butter, frisée, turnips and cured rhubarb shines with subtlety. The potato-crusted veal sweetbreads over corned beef short ribs and pickled celtuce brunoise sport a delightful tartness. Cumin-spiced lamb leans Middle Eastern, while key lime meringue is decidedly American.