With its chic and seamless blend of indoor and outdoor space, Masseria is a clear departure from its simpler surrounds. The classic former warehouse—complete with the requisite exposed ducts, concrete floors and brick walls—has been glammed up with a stainless steel exhibition kitchen, chrome and leather furnishings, pendant lights suspended from nautical rope and an impressive glass-encased wine cellar. It’s all very relaxed, albeit in a well-dressed way, and the feel-good vibe extends to the staff, who clearly like working here as much as diners enjoy lingering over the multicourse meals. Chef/owner Nicholas Stefanelli's Puglian heritage comes through in the menu, which features four or five courses, along with a nightly tasting. The kitchen hits all the right notes balancing trendy and serious. Begin with a cigar box filled with focaccia so sinfully delicious, you’ll be tempted to scarf it all down—but don’t. You’ll want to save room for the spicy fish stew, a thing of beauty practically brimming with tripe and lobster, or house-made maccheroni with a thick and gamey goat ragù. Even dessert strays far from the pack, showcasing beet ice cream instead of the classic tiramisu.