Come here to experience a unique style of Japanese dining called “kappo,” which leaves your meal entirely to the chef’s discretion. It may be less refined than the traditional kaiseki, but you will forget that when you begin to taste these ambitious compilations (with prices to match). A dedication to seasonal ingredients sourced locally and from Japan makes this style of cooking truly distinct. Sashimi courses may move from bluefin tuna in sweet miso and mustard dressing, to rich winter yellowtail with grated purple daikon and tangy yuzu juice. Then that last fish returns, koji-marinated, grilled and set over braised chrysanthemum greens. This chef may not be from Japan, but he spent a whole decade there, refining his technical skills.