MICHELIN Guide’s Point Of View
Counter dining can sometimes mean lots of elbows and competitive eaters who enjoy flaunting their food knowledge in front of others. Fortunately, the three-sided counter here at Atera is large enough to ensure you’re sufficiently far from your fellow diners as well as a certain level of privacy while still letting you enjoy the communal, immersive experience. Things are certainly more grown-up and a little less rock-n-roll here than in similarly styled places: there’s barely a tattoo in sight and the soundtrack appears to have been chosen by someone who doesn’t care that much for music. But, it is needed because there can be pauses in conversation when everyone is facing forward. Danish chef Ronny Emborg and his multi-national team serve up a nightly menu of around 20 courses, progressing from the light and subtle to the rich and robust. There may be plenty of tweezer action from the chefs as they plate up their beguiling creations, but they know that there's nowhere to hide when food is this precise and delicate. Dishes also deliver on the promise that their beauty suggests, whether that's the creamy scallop with crisp celery or the succulent loin of lamb with snap peas.