MICHELIN Guide’s Point Of View
Oaxaca by way of Gowanus? When it’s this seriously delicious, you bet. Arriving courtesy of Chef/co-owners Chad Shaner and T.J. Steele along with partner, J.T. Stewart, this Mexican charmer is an instant hit. Locals are particularly quick to head to the restaurant's breezy backyard, where groups take to the clever mezcal-focused cocktail list. Of course, as word of the delicious food gets out, even more fans will follow. The interior is small and stars a wood-fired oven, bar up front, smattering of tables, as well as a garden complete with its own kitchen. Service is bright, friendly and accessible, but the real draw is their excellent Oaxacan dishes, rendered true to their classical roots in some and then spun with creative riffs in others. The barbacoa is a point of pride and the kitchen only cooks so much of it daily, so plan to get here early if you intend to feast on this popular item. Savory barbacoa tacos are then laced with spicy green salsa and paired with a bowl of soulful consommé. Other high points include tender seared octopus with bacon and pickled chilies piled on to crispy tortillas. Don't forget about the black beans though, which boast that perfect combo of smoke and heat.