Welcome to Dove’s Luncheonette, the 41-seat Wicker Park diner where you can nosh on Southern-inspired Mexican eats while listening to 45s of 1960s and 1970s Chicago soul and blues spinning on the jukebox.
The brainchild from the very expansive One Off Hospitality—and named from Nelson Algren’s A Walk on the Wild Side—offers counter service for breakfast, lunch and dinner. Chef de cuisine Tom Carlin oversees the kitchen staff, turning out dishes like bacalau fritters with habanero and green olive aïoli, smoked brisket tacos with jalapeño/avocado salsa, pozole rojo with slow-braised pork shoulder in a gajillo chile broth, and an every day special of buttermilk biscuits with chorizo verde gravy.
The most popular item on the menu of the Bib Gourmand is the chicken fried chicken. “It’s an OG Dove’s dish,” says Carlin. “Two pieces of crispy fried chicken, green chorizo gravy with peas and pearl onions on top—it’s comfort food at its best.” Another popular item on the menu is the aguachile, where high quality market fish is marinated in a spicy herb and mezcal sauce and served as crudo.
Carlin, a Kansas City native, developed his flavors and techniques of the American Southwest when cooking in Houston. Upon relocating to Chicago, he staged at three-Michelin-starred Alinea before assuming a role with One Off’s Publican Quality Meats, where he mastered whole animal butchery.
Ask chef what his personal favorite on the menu is, and the answer is simple: squash enchiladas. “We take roasted kabocha squash and glaze it with chamomile honey,” he says. “Then we roll the squash in corn tortillas with queso fresco and pepitas.” The difference with Dove’s enchiladas versus the traditional is that they’re covered in a poblano mole and then topped with more pepitas, scallions, cilantro and cheese. “They’re hearty, vegetarian and have a really rich flavor—perfect for colder months.”
For a bit more indulgence—and for a late night hankering—Carlin turns to the mejillones, aka, Prince Edward Island mussels steamed with habanero and leek escabeche, fried potatoes and finished with Texas toast and a broiled egg sauce.
All of the menu items at Dove’s Luncheonette can be paired with any of the wines, beers, cocktails or agave flights featuring Mezcal or Tequila, offered at the bar. Carlin recommends The Cantarito cocktail, comprised of Lunazul Tequila, orange juice, grapefruit juice, lime, salt, Mexican Squirt soda and Tajín seasoning. “It’s super refreshing and gets the job done—it’s really fun.”
Dove's Luncheonette
1545 N. Damen Ave.
773-645-4060
Open Daily
Hero image by Brian Willette.
