MICHELIN Guide’s Point Of View
Make your way past the stylish SLS Hotel lobby and through a set of discreet doors to arrive in a world enveloped by luxury—curved oak walls, polished marble and handsome leather seats all set the stage for a whimsical but utterly premium culinary experience. Colorful bull heads and perfectly calibrated lighting lend visual appeal to this elegantly neutral room. Tickets for dining must be purchased in advance as there are only two nightly seatings, but rest easy as the effort is completely worthy. Here, members of José Andrés' brigade perform a veritable ballet and follow on the heels of Chef Aitor Zabala, whose dinner brings pure theater. His remarkable pedigree and passion surprise at every turn, so have no preconceptions of what a meal here entails. Instead, imagine a sensory experience where your fingers double as utensils. While some dishes appear deceptively simple, like a cool oyster topped with caviar or finely diced beef tartare, flavors run deep, with unparalleled ease. Your feast may reach its peak over the turbot wing lacquered with teriyaki or dry-aged strip loin emmolada. Desserts, like a matcha ice cream donut, are especially memorable and display a mind-boggling attention to detail.