MICHELIN Guide’s Point Of View
Nozawa Bar is an extraordinary little jewel box of a room and sushi counter, secreted away in the back of the Beverly Hills location of Sugarfish. Yet its menu, kitchen and overall spirit are totally independent of the local chain restaurant in which it is housed. Be sure to arrive on time, as each seating begins promptly. Omakase is the sole dining option here, served as multiple courses of primarily nigiri as well as a few sashimi and handrolls. Each sequence centers on exceptionally pristine fish, most of which is caught in Japanese waters and exported straight to local markets. These nigiri are particularly distinctive thanks to a generous brush of nikiri and loosely packed rice, served just warm enough to contrast with and elevate the flavorful fish. Chef Osamu Fujita may be a traditionalist, but the 24-course menu includes many novelties. Start with the bright, white and perfectly crunchy jellyfish dressed with ponzu. This might be followed by an impressive presentation of deliciously tender octopus, sliced into thin slivers for sashimi. Sushi highlights include the delicate halibut fin, ruby-red snapper cut before your eyes and a handroll of mountain yam, ume and shiso leaf.