Dining In 2 minutes 05 July 2024

Green Star Chef, Home Cook: Chantelle Nicholson, Apricity

The Chef-Owner of Michelin Green Star Apricity, London, shares her simple cook-at-home, zero waste recipe

If you've arrived via the hustle and bustle of Oxford Street, it's hard to believe that the oasis of calm that is Apricity exists just a few minutes' walk away. A delightful team invite you into the bright, welcoming room, where the chairs are made from recycled Coke bottles and the room's old furnishings have been given new roles – for example, the former skirting boards now make up part of the bar.

This is a place where eco-credentials inform every decision, from the paint and the deliveries to the vegetable-led food and the unique drinks. British ingredients are showcased on the menu and are either foraged or come from small local producers – not always an easy feat considering its central London location. The aim is to connect guests with British farmers and suppliers who are all part of a green network and share the same vision.

We asked Chef-Owner Chantelle Nicholson to share one of her recipes with us; something that can be easily replicated at home and uses every part of the main ingredient – and which proves that, with some small changes, we can all make a difference to the future of the planet.

Roasted Cauliflower, Caramelised Cauliflower Purée, Emmer Wheat and Zhoug

(Serves 4)

Ingredients:

2 medium cauliflowers
250ml milk or plant-based milk
200g emmer wheat or spelt
100ml white wine vinegar
50ml vegetable oil
1 tsp caster sugar
Table salt

For the Zhoug:

200ml olive oil
30g coriander, including stalks, roughly chopped
20g parsley, including stalks, roughly chopped
5g cumin seeds, toasted
2 small cloves garlic, microplaned
3 cardamom pods, seeds removed
1 green chilli, finely chopped
1 tsp white wine vinegar
½ tsp dark brown soft sugar


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Method


Step 1

Remove the leaves from the cauliflower, cut the stems from the centre and finely slice (or pop into a food processor and pulse). Bring the vinegar to the boil along with 100ml of water, the caster sugar and a good pinch of salt. Remove from the heat, add the chopped stems and set aside. Keep the leaves aside for later.

Step 2

Cut each cauliflower into 6 wedges. Set the largest 8 wedges aside, then roughly chop the 4 remaining wedges, including the stem, into small pieces.

Heat 2 tablespoons of oil in a medium sized saucepan over a moderately high heat. When hot, add the chopped cauliflower and season well with salt. Cook for 15-20 minutes, stirring constantly, until the cauliflower is a deep golden colour. Add the milk, then blend to form a smooth purée.

Step 3

Preheat the oven to 230℃ or 210℃ for a fan oven.

Whilst the chopped cauliflower is cooking, brush the cauliflower wedges liberally with the remaining vegetable oil and season well with salt. Place on a roasting dish or oven tray and pop into the oven for 15-18 minutes, turning halfway through.

Fry off the cauliflower leaves until they are crispy.

Step 4

Place the emmer wheat in a saucepan, add salt and cover with water. Cook for 20 minutes. When done, strain off and add 1 teaspoon of olive oil and season with salt and pepper. Keep warm.

Step 5

For the zhoug, place all of the ingredients into the blender with 4 tablespoons of cold water and a good pinch of salt. Blend until almost smooth.

Step 6

To serve, divide the cauliflower purée between the plates. Top with the emmer wheat, then the cauliflower wedges. Spoon the zhoug over the top, then finish with the pickled stems and crispy leaves.


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