Located at MICHELIN-recommended Raffles Hotel Singapore, La Dame de Pic by chef Anne-Sophie Pic has been recognised with its first MICHELIN Star. Pic, who runs a slew of MICHELIN-Starred eponymous restaurants such as 3-Star Pic in Valence, France, 2-Star Anne-Sophie Pic in Lausanne, Switzerland, and MICHELIN-Starred La Dame de Pic restaurants in London, Megève, and Paris, has another MICHELIN-Starred post to add to her list — and this time, the first in Asia.
Described by the MICHELIN inspectors as a smoothly run, bright, and comfortable dining room that provides a worthy canvas for Pic's culinary vision, La Dame de Pic at Raffles Hotel Singapore is helmed by Italian chef de cuisine Francesco Di Marzio. Having trained in MICHELIN-Starred kitchens around the world such as 3-Star Benu in San Francisco and 2-Star Amber in Hong Kong, Marzio was appointed as La Dame de Pic's chef de cuisine only last year, in the middle of 2021.
Congratulations on the MICHELIN Star! How do you feel now that La Dame de Pic Singapore has this recognition and what is its impact on the restaurant?
Anne-Sophie Pic: I am thrilled to see La Dame de Pic Singapore recognised with its first MICHELIN Star — it bears witness to the investment of hard work, dedication, and patience of our teams in the challenging times following the restaurant’s opening.
For me, this star shines special light on my lifelong fascination with Asian culture and cuisine and is the perfect illumination of the shared commitment of the Maison Pic and Raffles groups to the marriage of history and modernity. While it is too early to measure the [MICHELIN Star's] effect, it is certain that it has a significant impact on the team, especially on their motivation, so that they continue to improve and give their best every day.
Francesco Di Marzio: It is an unbelievable recognition as we are the first in Raffles Hotel Singapore’s illustrious 135-year history to receive this honour, and another MICHELIN Star for chef Anne-Sophie, coincidentally conferred on her birthday.
How would you describe the cuisine to a first-time diner at La Dame de Pic, Raffles Singapore?
FDM: La Dame de Pic’s menus are inspired, inventive, and elegant, showcasing the best seasonal produce and respecting chef Anne-Sophie's signature culinary philosophy, while cleverly incorporating local and regional flavours and ingredients. At La Dame de Pic, we present a foretaste of Valence guided by her culinary identity, which reflects her search for aromatic complexity, combinations of flavours, and powerful tastes that evoke emotions.
Speaking of emotions, what emotions do you want to evoke from the La Dame de Pic's guests, and what feeling do you want them to leave with?
ASP: From my perspective, it is first and foremost to provoke an emotion, to generate envy, curiosity and, in some cases, to leave a memorial imprint; to locate a culinary universe with the discovery of new feelings, sensations. It is fantastic to be able to write one's emotions into a dish, to give happiness to people, and to feel that same emotion yourself.
The guest experience is not only about the culinary offering on the plate, but also about the context in which it takes place: welcome and service, decoration and design, tableware — all the elements that will build the relevant storytelling. It starts long before the coming of the customer and continues after the customer has left the restaurant.
My ambition is to keep surprising my guests by always pushing the experience further. What gets me up in the morning is the quest of harmony. For example, I work with Paz Levinson (my executive sommelier) around a different approach of the pairings to fulfil the experience. I wanted to develop aromatic dialogues between products or dishes right down to the drinks.
FDM: Nostalgia. Fondness.
Anne-Sophie Pic
How did you meet Francesco and what were your first impressions of him?
I first met Francesco in London. He was the chef of the Château-Latour club at the Trinity Square, where I have a La Dame de Pic London, which has two MICHELIN Stars. I was in charge of the club, and we worked together for a few months. Then, I proposed to him to come to Valence in France to better discover my roots when Kevin Gatin, chef of La Dame de Pic Singapore at that time, decided to return to France. I proposed this new challenge to Francesco. It felt like a very audacious request from me, even if Francesco worked for a while in Asia before London, but I had faith in him.
What is the significance of the Berlingots in your menus? What does this dish mean to you?
These Berlingots are very symbolic of my cuisine. I wanted to create a pasta with a unique flavour, colour, and shape that would recall the regional raviole de Romans [sur-Isère] (a French area near Valence, my birth city). It is a pasta made using Comté, milk curd, and parsley. My inspirations for these Berlingots were the boiled sweets of the same name that I loved as a child, and the idea of a pasta flavoured with matcha green tea.
The innovation of this dish lies in the shape of the Berlingot, which guarantees a good balance between the quantities of pasta and filling, giving forth a soft, creamy, and very gourmet filling. It can be paired with many different flavours depending on the season, the region, and the inspiration. It’s one of the cornerstones of my cuisine. In Singapore, we serve the Berlingots in the spirit of Laksa with an herb coulis.
What message do you have for the Singapore team?
I have a great team around me. I love encouraging my team to think and push their boundaries by sharing my knowledge, elevating their thinking to the highest level. I thank my team for their hard work and consistency. This recognition goes out to each and every member — from those I started this journey with, to the newest members.
Best advice you can give to chefs?
It is very important to constantly push the limits of your knowledge; to be very curious and daring. Humility must be part of the success, but also generosity to share with the teams and the guests.
Francesco Di Marzio
Where did your passion for food start and who were your biggest influences growing up?
My passion for food started at a young age. As with most Italians, our grandmothers are the biggest influence as their cooking comes from the heart. When I joined a culinary school and started to learn how to cook, I fell in love with the craft and realised that I had found my calling.
What made you decide to come to Singapore and helm the La Dame de Pic, Raffles Singapore kitchen, especially in the midst of the pandemic?
I fell in love with Asia in Hong Kong during my time at Amber. Directly after my stint in Hong Kong, I moved to Benu, as I enjoyed Asian cooking. My goal was to move to Asia, but due to circumstances, I moved back to Europe where I met chef Anne-Sophie Pic for the first time. A few years later, she gave me the opportunity to pursue my dream in Singapore.
How has Singapore become your “home away from home”?
The diversity in culture is what I like most about Singapore. There is a myriad of cuisines that can be found here, and whenever I’m inspired, I feel most comfortable. Sometimes it doesn’t matter where you are as long as you enjoy your life and find fulfilment in what you do.
What is your ultimate Italian comfort food and favourite pantry staples?
My comfort food is carbonara, without a doubt. If I have to cook for friends, or myself, this will be my absolute go-to. If there is place that respects the traditional way of cooking this dish, it will be at GIO in Tanjong Pagar. My top must-have Italian grocery items will be, guanciale, a good olive oil, Nutella, colatura di alici (Italian fish sauce made from anchovies), and homemade passata di pomodoro (tomato purée).
What is your leadership style like in the kitchen?
Chef Anne-Sophie inspired me by showing me that the sky is the limit for a humble cook like myself. It does not matter at which point you are in your career and life. You always have to stay humble and focused. My staff are my family. I make it a point to treat everyone with respect, as this is important to me. I like to create a fun environment each day because we spend so many hours together. However, I still lead the team with a firm hand.
How do you enjoy your free time?
I love discovering new and interesting restaurants and bars in the city I live in. From fine dining to hawker centres, they all pique my interest. And at night when I finish work, I like to see the sea and hear the sound of the waves crashing.
Tell us about your first encounter with the MICHELIN Guide and what influence has it had over your career?
My first work experience at a MICHELIN-Starred restaurant was in Rome back in 2009. In the beginning, it was very challenging as it was a completely new experience to me. However, the experience solidified my desire to become a MICHELIN-Starred restaurant chef. After working for a year at [now-defunct] The Greenhouse in London, which had one MICHELIN Star at that time, the restaurant was recognised with a second MICHELIN Star, and this further inspired me to continue my career with my goals in mind.
What did you feel when you found out that La Dame de Pic Singapore gained its first MICHELIN Star?
I had mixed emotions. I was very happy but was more humbled because I knew that there was a lot more work to do. It felt amazing, however, because at least I knew we are headed towards the right direction.
Who was the first person you called when you found out?
My mother.
How did you and the team celebrate?
I made sure that the whole team was with me at the [MICHELIN Star Revelation] after-party at Marquee. After that, we had supper and then in the morning, we were back in the kitchen, sharp and focused as ever.
Is there anyone you would like to dedicate this recognition to?
I would like to dedicate this recognition to all who have made this happen — namely, Mr. Westbeld, the Managing Director of the Raffles Hotel Singapore, chef Anne-Sophie Pic and David Sinapian, but most of all, my whole team and family who have supported me through this journey unconditionally.
What is your message to other young chefs who want to achieve a similar goal as you?
It is important to have a dream, but a dream without a goal and a solid tangible plan is just a dream. Always keep your head down, work hard towards your dreams, and remember that the world is your oyster. Keep learning everyday from everyone.
What do you think is the most important character trait that a chef should have?
Perseverance with common sense.
Who has influenced your life the most in terms of your career and what are you most grateful for?
Arnaud Bignon [of two-MICHELIN-Starred Spondi]. I’m sure that if our paths did not cross back in 2012, I will not be where I am. I am grateful to him for giving me an opportunity to work in his restaurant's kitchen. He saw potential in me and took a chance even if I had little experience and did not speak any English at all.
Can you describe your creative process, especially when it comes to designing the dishes at La Dame de Pic?
We always start with the main ingredient depending on seasonality. Then, we move on to the aromatic framework. This includes spices, citrus, and herbs. Then comes the plating. It must be elegant and delicate as chef Anne-Sophie has a very feminine personality; for instance, the colours on our plate are always aesthetically pleasing. But this doesn’t mean that the dish will always turn out light as chef Anne-Sophie also gives importance to the aromatic complexity and powerful combination of flavours.
What’s next for Francesco di Marzio?
The life of a chef is like a pot of boiling water — something is always bubbling.
La Dame de Pic is located at Raffles Hotel Singapore, 1 Beach Rd, Singapore 189673, Singapore. Book a table here.