Situated in a quiet residential district, Sushi Sanshin is open only at lunchtime. The naturally lit interior presents an austere charm. The chef is schooled in the old ways of sushi-making, but weaves in a few tricks of his own. For example, tiger prawn, filleted ‘double door’ style, is dressed prawn miso rather with than the conventional wasabi. The tamagoyaki, placed on top of the rice like a horse's saddle, hides a small amount of fish flakes underneath. Norimaki made with herbs to evoke vegetable flavours is a speciality found only here. Pursuit of the new, tempered by respect for the classics.