Good-humoured Kei Sakamoto views his enterprise as ‘sushi for the masses’. The staple item is the temari sushi of boiled shrimp. The vinegared rice, with delicately sweetened rice vinegar, brings out the Kansai character of the sushi. The toro and takuan rolled sushi is made by beating the tuna before rolling it – an entertaining spectacle. Sardine is cut into accordion pleats; grilled kichiji rockfish is garnished with its liver. It is these subtle touches that proclaim the artisan’s skill.