Masaaki Fujita reaches deep into the character and history of Japan and Italy to conjure his cuisine. Eel, Chinese yam and red rice on a single plate fuse the gustatory senses of the two countries, both rooted deeply in cultures of river fish and rice. Zest of Japanese pepper married with the bittersweet of red wine sauce is somehow nostalgic. Fujita’s motto is ‘to be master of one is to be master of all’. His long study of hometown cooking followed by his own innovations proves the point.