César Ramirez is one of the few chefs who, night after night, has the difficult task of meeting his own singular standards of high-wire precision. His new downtown restaurant brings a sleek, minimal look to a century-old address. As might be expected, world-class seafood plays a large role in his tasting menu which features such delights as a morsel of blackthroat seaperch from Chiba, crudo of fluke from Jeju Island, and langoustine from Norway dressed with caviar and smoked trout. A masterful hand with sauces and a sense for harmonious, exacting combinations demonstrate both creativity and maturity. An eager service team oversees the spacious room where counter and table seating alike offer a prime vantage point for watching this kinetic kitchen.