People 5 minutes 12 December 2023

Holiday Traditions of MICHELIN Chefs in Malaysia

The holiday season is in the air, and these MICHELIN restaurant chefs in Malaysia tell us about their holiday traditions and must-have dishes on the holiday dining table.

The culinary scene in Malaysia unfolds as a dynamic mosaic, intricately woven with the diverse threads of its multicultural tapestry. Influenced by the culinary traditions of the Malays, Chinese, Indians, and various indigenous communities, Malaysia's gastronomy embodies a seamless fusion of flavours, textures, and culinary techniques.

Expanding beyond its indigenous roots, Malaysia's culinary panorama also warmly embraces global influences, contributing an additional layer to its already diverse gastronomy. The nation serves as a nexus for an array of international cuisines, boasting numerous restaurants and eateries featuring everything — from Italian and Japanese, to Middle Eastern and Western dishes.

In Kuala Lumpur and Penang, both cities also boast a remarkable diversity of chef nationalities that contribute to their vibrant gastronomic scenes. And with the holidays just around the corner, we asked these chefs from MICHELIN restaurants in both Kuala Lumpur and Penang about their cherished holiday traditions and what holiday dishes they usually gather around and feast on.

Beh Gaik Lean of Auntie Gaik Lean's Old School Eatery (Photo: PARKROYAL COLLECTION Marina Bay)
Beh Gaik Lean of Auntie Gaik Lean's Old School Eatery (Photo: PARKROYAL COLLECTION Marina Bay)

Beh Gaik Lean

Auntie Gaik Lean's Old School Eatery
One MICHELIN Star, MICHELIN Guide Kuala Lumpur & Penang 2024


Chinese New Year is our traditional holiday. During this period, we have family reunion dinner celebrations from the eve of Chinese New Year to Chap Goh Meh (the 15th and last day of Chinese New Year).

A variety of food is cooked and served on a long table, but a must is Kiam Chye Ark (salted vegetable duck soup), Jiu Hu Char (stir-fried jicama strips with dried cuttlefish), and Lor Bak (5-spice meat roll).

Traditional Nyonya Dishes of Lor Bak and Pengat are must-haves during the Chinese New Year period. (Photo: Shutterstock)
Traditional Nyonya Dishes of Lor Bak and Pengat are must-haves during the Chinese New Year period. (Photo: Shutterstock)

On the eve, these three dishes are a must to worship the ancestors in the morning as a sign of remembering, respecting, and preserving our Nyonya traditions. After the offering ceremony, they are served on the table for our dinner reunion.

These dishes also symbolise good luck and prosperity to all members of the family — from old to young. Not forgetting the other delicious dishes such as Curry Kapitan (captain's chicken curry), Curry Tumis (tamarind fish curry), Assam Hae (fried tamarind prawns), and Chap Chye Char (mixed Nyoya vegetables). Lastly, for dessert, Pengat (a Malaysian dessert prepared by simmering together sugar, water, coconut milk, and starchy ingredients) is a must to mark Chap Goh Meh — a sweet ending to the celebrations.

Darren Chin of one-MICHELIN-starred DC. by Darren Chin (Photo: Darren Chin)
Darren Chin of one-MICHELIN-starred DC. by Darren Chin (Photo: Darren Chin)

Darren Chin

DC. by Darren Chin
One MICHELIN Star, MICHELIN Guide Kuala Lumpur & Penang 2024

My wife and I try to make it a point to visit Japan during the holidays. We love basking in the peaceful landscape and visiting the serene temples in Kyoto. Not forgetting the great kaiseki cuisine imprinted by kitchen legends like Murata-san's Kikunoi Roan in Kyoto and Narisawa in Tokyo.

As Chin and his wife usually spend the holidays in Japan, a kaiseki is his choice of holiday meal. (Photo: Shutterstock)
As Chin and his wife usually spend the holidays in Japan, a kaiseki is his choice of holiday meal. (Photo: Shutterstock)

Apart from the kaiseki experience, we also enjoy eating soba and tempura during the holiday season, as we are already in Japan. Kaiseki for seasonal and regional produce; Kyoto also makes the best soba noodles, in my opinion. I find them so addictive and fulfilling! Tempura in Tokyo is simply the best! You can easily see the ultra-fresh ingredients through batter, and the tempura is very clean-tasting — none of that oily slick.

Jenelle Tan of MICHELIN Selected Sambal in Georgetown, Penang (Photo: Jenelle Tan)
Jenelle Tan of MICHELIN Selected Sambal in Georgetown, Penang (Photo: Jenelle Tan)

Jenelle Tan

Sambal
MICHELIN Selected, MICHELIN Guide Kuala Lumpur & Penang 2024


My family is of Chinese Teochew descent, so for us, Chinese New Year is our traditional holiday, and we always celebrate with a bang! During this festive season, relatives from near and far will travel back and gather at our home for some hotpot and feasts for days.

One of the dishes that Tan and her family feast on is Teochew Guang Jiang (Photo: Shutterstock)
One of the dishes that Tan and her family feast on is Teochew Guang Jiang (Photo: Shutterstock)

The must-have dishes on our table are, firstly, Teochew Guang Jiang (潮洲光锵). This is a traditional radish or yam roll wrapped in beancurd skin with peanuts. In our house, we make them vegan-friendly, as they will be used for prayers, too. The rolls will then be steamed, sliced, and then deep-fried.

Next is Teochew Meng Soon, which is Teochew-braised dried bamboo shoot dish with pork belly. This dish right here is a gem. Nowadays, we don’t see it anywhere anymore as the preparation process would take at least two to three days. The dried bamboo shoots are seasonal, and once we get hold of them, they are boiled and then braised.

Lastly, we have Fresh Bamboo Spring Rolls. Chinese New Year marks the beginning of spring; hence, it is a season for sprouting bamboo shoots. This spring roll is made with fresh bamboo shoots, stir-fried with thinly sliced pork belly, fresh prawns, and mushrooms. Bamboo dishes are a trademark for the starting of spring as well.

Raymond Tham, chef of one-MICHELIN-starred Beta, and his dog, Teddy. (Photo: Raymond Tham)
Raymond Tham, chef of one-MICHELIN-starred Beta, and his dog, Teddy. (Photo: Raymond Tham)

Raymond Tham

Beta
One MICHELIN Star, MICHELIN Guide Kuala Lumpur & Penang 2024


Our Christmas tree at home will be up around early November since we're always busy at work during the year-end. Sometimes, as early as October, I normally bake special cookies (peanut butter with kibbles) for my dog, Teddy, as he love cookies.

Cooking for charity is another annual tradition for us in the restaurant group (Karls Group), where we will cook for either an orphanage or homeless people. As we have a lot of young chefs, it's good to teach them how to give back to the community.

Tham loves to whip up some Christmas Roast and Sticky Toffee Pudding for the holidays. (Photo: Shutterstock)
Tham loves to whip up some Christmas Roast and Sticky Toffee Pudding for the holidays. (Photo: Shutterstock)

As for food, I like to prepare the following: Christmas Roast, either turkey or beef, with gravy and roasted potatoes in duck fat. Root vegetables such as honey-roasted parsnips and carrots are one of my favourite dishes during the festive season.

For dessert, I love making a Sticky Toffee Pudding. It's one of the very first recipes I learned when I started my culinary journey, during my apprenticeship in the United Kingdom; it's something to remind me of my humble beginnings. Also, gingerbread! I love the smell of baking gingerbread — it truly is the smell of Christmas for me!

Roberto Dreon of Italian restaurant Il Bacaro in Penang (Photo: Roberto Dreon)
Roberto Dreon of Italian restaurant Il Bacaro in Penang (Photo: Roberto Dreon)

Roberto Dreon

Il Bacaro
MICHELIN Selected, MICHELIN Guide Kuala Lumpur & Penang 2024


My Christmas tradition for many years was to attend a Midnight Service at church on Christmas Eve in Italy, which normally would have Christmas choirs singing seasonal songs to create the festive atmosphere. After service with friends and family, we would spend a couple of hours drinking and eating roasted chestnuts till the early hours of the morning.

Apart from chestnuts and gnocchi, Panettone and Prosecco is a traditional holiday tandem at the Dreon home. (Photo: Shutterstock)
Apart from chestnuts and gnocchi, Panettone and Prosecco is a traditional holiday tandem at the Dreon home. (Photo: Shutterstock)

Christmas day lunch would be with family and friends. The lunch would include Gnocchi al Ragu, which is my mother's special dish; fish baked in the oven, as we lived near the sea; and Panettone, our special Christmas cake, enjoyed with Prosecco. Every Italian family at Christmas will have Panettone and Prosecco in the house.

Also, traditionally, employers in Italy would give those two as seasonal gifts to their employees. So it's been a tradition now in our Italian restaurant in Penang for us to gift Panettone and Prosecco to our key employees.

Shaun Ng of MICHELIN Selected restaurant Hide in Kuala Lumpur (Photo: Hide)
Shaun Ng of MICHELIN Selected restaurant Hide in Kuala Lumpur (Photo: Hide)

Shaun Ng

Hide
MICHELIN Selected, MICHELIN Guide Kuala Lumpur & Penang 2024


The holiday traditions that I share with my loved ones would be during Chinese New Year.

I look forward to Chinese New Year the most as we will get to see relatives and friends that we haven't really seen in a long time. Of course, we will gather and enjoy a meal together.

Yu Sheng, a Lunar New Year staple. (Photo: Shutterstock)
Yu Sheng, a Lunar New Year staple. (Photo: Shutterstock)

We will celebrate with hotpot, Yu Sheng, and braised abalone. These three dishes make up the centrepiece of our celebratory feasts, apart from their auspicious significance of togetherness and generosity.

Yavhin Siriwardhana, Chef de Cuisine at Nadodi (Photo: Nadodi)
Yavhin Siriwardhana, Chef de Cuisine at Nadodi (Photo: Nadodi)

Yavhin Siriwardhana

Nadodi
MICHELIN Selected, MICHELIN Guide Kuala Lumpur & Penang 2024

Growing up, I cherished the festive seasons in Seremban, Malaysia, celebrating at my extended family's home. The day was marked by joyous gift exchanges and a grand feast featuring iconic dishes such as biryani, an array of curries, and a delightful side of stuffing.

Biryani (Photo: Shutterstock)
Biryani (Photo: Shutterstock)

Over the years my partner and I, along with close friends, have started celebrating the season with a rather close-knit gathering. This year, we've planned a different yet equally special celebration. Our festive potluck will bring together diverse culinary delights, accompanied by music and shared laughter. As a unique twist, we'll wrap up the night with a good horror movie, adding an ironic but delightful touch to the holiday season festivities.

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