Features 3 minutes 25 July 2023

How Malaysia’s Darren Chin Established Three MICHELIN Restaurants

Chef-patron Darren Chin of one-MICHELIN-starred DC. by Darren Chin and MICHELIN-listed restaurants Bref by Darren Chin and Gai by Darren Chin talks about his 25 years in the industry; applying what he has coined “The DC Way”, which has sustained his restaurant empire comprising 100 employees; and what it takes to pursue honed simplicity.

Darren Chin has established some of Malaysia's most acclaimed restaurants. Whenever the initials D.C. are mentioned in Kuala Lumpur, one recognises it instantly as a commitment to quality, taste balance, and consistency.

This commitment to excellence is evident in Chin's hat trick at the inaugural launch of the MICHELIN Guide Kuala Lumpur and Penang, earning a MICHELIN star for his first restaurant, DC. by Darren Chin, and two MICHELIN-selected recognitions for Bref by Darren Chin and Gai by Darren Chin.

However, it took Chin 25 years to achieve what appears to be an overnight success, and it comes with sacrifices, dedication to his passion, long hours, and perseverance. Chin attributes his early success in the culinary industry to his father's encouragement. "My father greatly influenced me when I first started cooking. If he hadn't invested in me and my first restaurant, I wouldn't have a foundation had to begin with," Chin recounts. His father, David Chin, founded Dave's Deli in the 1990s, and it has since grown into a well-established casual deli chain serving hearty deli meals such as its signature roast chickens.

“When you reach a point where you have experienced so much pain and devastation, you continuously push yourself to the point where you don't want to break again; or perhaps, I work best under pressure.”

"The pivotal, life-changing moment was when I packed my bags and enrolled in Le Cordon Bleu Paris, where I truly learned how to cook. I was going through a difficult divorce at that time. My training in France gave me the tools to reach for the stars," Chin shares candidly.

Upon returning home in 2014, driven by his passion for cooking and relentless drive to make his name, Chin launched his first restaurant, DC. by Darren Chin, at the age of 35.

Darren Chin opened his first restaurant, DC. by Darren Chin, when he was 35.
Darren Chin opened his first restaurant, DC. by Darren Chin, when he was 35.

The DC Way

"A restaurant must always begin with good and honest intentions," Chin shares. Chin had a clear vision when he first started with DC. by Darren Chin and has remained true to his beliefs ever since. Today, Chin's “DC Way” of commitment to quality, consistency, discipline, and understanding customers has attracted many chefs who now work for his team, garnered a loyal following of diners, as well as critical praise. This focus on quality extends to all aspects of Chin’s restaurants, from the décor and ambience to the service and hospitality. "My repertoire is based on classic French highly skilled techniques that highlight fresh, high-quality ingredients. In the early days, my approach was always to overdo and over-prove. For the last four years, with my sous chef Tran TT, who I attribute our MICHELIN recognition to, we have been pursuing a ‘less is more’ approach, with no more than two or three elements on the plate. Tran gave me that path to see beyond the possibility of having — and understanding — my restraints. The menu has evolved to highlighting premium ingredients in their purity and provenance, presenting nature's bounty in its most unadulterated form."

The innovative chef has also quietly led by example. He instilled in a new generation of young chefs work ethics, discipline, and an attitude permeating every dining experience. Chin believes in mentoring and motivating his staff to maintain high standards and has guided and trained many chefs. "Mentoring is important. Invest in the right people who share your values. Here, there is a ‘DC Way’ of doing things. "My team will tell you that if you stay here long enough, you'll be DC-tized," he chuckles.

“Creating the right work culture is critical. Our team must believe that we are working together to achieve the core mandate.”

Chin launched Bref by Darren Chin in 2018, and Gai by Darren Chin, his latest venture in 2022, which was born out of the pandemic. Gai by Darren Chin pays homage to his beloved wife, Nana, and her hometown in Chiang Mai, Thailand. "We've created an ecosystem for all of our restaurants and invested in solid techniques and equipment to help the staff," he says. “The goal is to have seamless processes that flow like a ballet dance. The key is to keep practising and perfecting your skills. It's a lengthy and laborious process, but it's well worth it." All of Chin's restaurants bear his name, but the menus are the responsibility of the chefs he has entrusted them with. Chef Lim Wei Han, for example, has been with Chin since the inception of DC. By Darren Chin, now helms Bref by Darren Chin and is one of the restaurant’s shareholders.

 Gai by Darren Chin pays homage to his beloved wife, Nana, and her hometown in Chiang Mai, Thailand.
Gai by Darren Chin pays homage to his beloved wife, Nana, and her hometown in Chiang Mai, Thailand.

Stay True to Your Beliefs

Chin emphasised the importance of learning from one’s mistakes, accepting responsibility, and rising above them. When asked about his advice to the next generation of chefs, he says: “We are craftspeople, and we should never forget that. The objectives of your professional career may change along the way, but it is critical not to lose sight of them and to pull yourself back constantly. I've seen many people become swayed and lose interest in cooking.

When I mentor someone, I aim to make them think about whether they believe in the taste they have created. If so, go ahead and present it to the world. You are your own harshest critic. Once you overcome that fear or apprehension, you will evolve as a better chef," Chin says reverently.

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Due Recognition

"Right now, my greatest epiphany would be the self-discovery of my cooking’s pinnacle," Chin says upon reflecting on his restaurants’ MICHELIN recognitions. "The achievement is the result of a collaborative effort. This acknowledgement carries weight and conviction in and of itself. Moving forward becomes more seamless when the team believes in our cause."

Chin recently launched Omakase on the highest floor of DC. by Darren Chin, which also houses Cellar, a well-designed wine cellar carrying over 800 labels and 4,000 bottles. Omakase is an intimate 10-seater where diners will experience a tasting menu presented personally by Chin.

Omakase, Chin's latest venture, is on the highest floor of DC. by Darren Chin.
Omakase, Chin's latest venture, is on the highest floor of DC. by Darren Chin.

And if that’s not enough, Chin is also working on his most ambitious project yet, slated to open later this year. A three-storey, 18,000-square-foot building to be called M/D Building that will house Bref by Darren Chin 2, Monsieur Darren — showcasing exquisite French pastry, Gai by Darren Chin 2, and a partnership with a renowned global liquor brand for a jazz lounge.

All images courtesy of Darren Chin.

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