Kemeralti, a maze of streets with a picturesque square, is the heart of Izmir. Aysa, a restaurant full of character, is right at home in this idyllic location. The cold and hot buffet offers a wealth of Bosnian and Ottoman delicacies that you can load up on to your heart's content. For instance, you might start with marinated grape leaves stuffed with a delicious filling of rice and various spices, continue with some lamb stew and finish with some wonderfully moist baklava. NB: Reservations are not accepted, so be sure to arrive in good time!