With its rich history, splendid architecture and abundance of fabulous restaurants, Hungary should be high up on your list of countries to visit. To help plan your trip, The MICHELIN Guide Inspectors have created a suggested itinerary, recommending where to eat, stay and explore. Our route takes you from the capital city of Budapest to Pécs in southern Hungary, via the beautiful Lake Balaton. Watch the video above to see all of our recommendations for yourself – and read on for more detail.
Budapest
Day One
Arrival
After arriving in Budapest in the early afternoon, head straight to Matild Palace, a Luxury Collection Hotel, to check in. Built during the Belle Époque period by Marie Clotilde, Archduchess of Austria, the hotel is a lovingly restored building that combines its historical heritage with stylish contemporary design. As well as being home to Spago by Wolfgang Puck, the hotel also houses the modern incarnation of the much-loved Matild Café, which has been home to many a cabaret performance over the years. If you’re in need of extra relaxation at any time during your stay, head to the Swan Spa, which is inspired by the city’s thermal baths.
Afternoon Tea
After dropping your bags and settling in, head back out into the city to see the sights. From St. Stephen’s Basilica to Buda Castle, there’s plenty to discover while you’re here. As four o’clock approaches, it’s time to visit one of the city’s most beautiful spaces in the form of the New York Café. An exceptionally ornate building, it’s one of the best places in Hungary to visit if you really want to feel like you’re living the life of luxury. It’s also the place to come if you’re looking for an afternoon tea spot, with platters piled high with cakes and other treats that are oh-so-tempting. With 130 years of history, the New York Café continues to be a must-see spot in Budapest.
Costes
Dinner
Before dinner, head back to Matild Palace to freshen up and kick off your evening with a drink in The Duchess Bar on the hotel’s rooftop. Full of glamour and a roster of inviting cocktails, it’s the ideal spot for an aperitif – and that’s without considering the spectacular views of the river Danube.
For dinner itself, you have a multitude of options in Budapest. At Onyx Mühely, it quickly becomes apparent that this is no ordinary dining experience. It is essentially a test kitchen, where diners are invited to try creative dishes at a large communal table. Immersive elements are also incorporated, like wearing headphones while eating certain courses. Holding a Michelin Green Star, it’s no surprise that there’s also a strong sustainable ethos to everything they do at Onyx Mühely – and all ingredients come from within or just outside the city.
A slightly more conventional experience is available at Michelin-StarredCostes, which was the first restaurant in Hungary to hold a One Michelin Star. There’s a sustainable element here too, with seasonal and local ingredients used on a fixed tasting menu – this format is chosen in order to minimise waste. The internationally influenced cooking demonstrates great precision and craft from the chefs, while an exceptional wine list enhances the experience; their large cellar in the restaurant is also a source of great pride for the team.
Lake Balaton
Day Two
Road Trip
Having had a good night’s rest at Matild Palace, it’s time to leave the city and explore more of what this wonderful country has to offer. Around a 40 minute drive outside of Budapest, you’ll find Etyeki Manor Vineyard (Etyeki Kúria Borászat), where you can view the grapes growing in the sunshine before enjoying a wine tasting courtesy of the winery’s experts. After this, get back in the car and head further away from the city to Lake Balaton, one of Hungary’s most famous beauty spots.
Lunch
On the edge of Lake Balaton is füge, a popular eatery among the area’s regular yacht-owning visitors. A relaxed vibe accompanies cooking that mixes house-made pizzas with Asian street food inspired dishes; the chef has a background working in kitchens across Thailand, Indonesia and beyond, and has brought those influences back with him. Despite the global outlook, ingredients often come from Lake Balaton and its surrounding area – including catfish and trout from the lake itself.
füge
Check In
On the same side of the river as füge sits the town of Balatonfüred and the LUA Resort. Pitched as an elegant getaway for adults only, it tries to capture the feel and energy of Lake Balaton and combines it with their own signature style. Rooms are minimalist yet still luxurious, while the various facilities play a large part in the overall appeal. Spend your afternoon letting off steam in their rooftop gym, unwinding in their infinity pool or experiencing blissful relaxation in their spa, which offers a host of treatments. If a relaxed drink in sophisticated surroundings is more your thing, then look no further than the NOON Bar – with its Rum Room – or The View rooftop bar.
Dinner
There’s no need to leave this luxurious resort for dinner, just pop down to the NOON restaurant for some Michelin-recommended cooking. The kitchen team here like to combine traditional methods with modern technology, across dishes that display inventive touches and a few Asian fusion influences. The chefs also take great pride in using produce from the local area, including fish from Lake Balaton. The whole operation is run smoothly and with great precision, but if you’re coming in high season, then you’ll want to book ahead if you’re not staying at the hotel.
Lake Hévíz
Day Three
Lake Swimming
After breakfast at the LUA Resort, it’s time to hit the road again and head to the western end of Lake Balaton – more specifically, to the spa town of Héviz and its famed thermal lake. One of the largest of its kind in the world, the lake provides a brilliant opportunity to continue your relaxation; thanks to its 30˚C waters, it’s the perfect spot for a warming dip. After this, it’s time to start the journey south towards Pécs.
Lunch
Before you head all the way down to Hungary’s southern region, stop off for lunch at Lokal47 in Kéthely. It’s located inside the headquarters of the Kristinus Wine Estate, a sustainable building that supplies a selection of wines for diners to enjoy either inside the restaurant or outside on their terrace. Another place with a focus on local ingredients, the chefs here have built up strong relationships with nearby farmers and most of their produce comes from within a close radius of the restaurant. The name refers to the fact that 47km away they run a small farm which also provides ingredients for the flavoursome, carefully prepared dishes.
Palatinus Boutique Hotel
Pécs
For the last leg of your trip, it’s time to make the journey to the ancient city of Pécs, which is a little over a 2 hour drive away. Here, you can take a walk around the city and explore landmarks like Pécs Cathedral and the Early Christian Mausoleum. Alternatively, if you fancy something a little different, take a detour to the smaller city of Szekszárd and take part in a truffle hunting experience. Once you're finished with your afternoon activities, head to the Palatinus Boutique Hotel to check in. It updates an 18th century building with stylish modernist furniture and bold contemporary colours. Photos of historical scenes adorn the walls of its 29 rooms, each of which comes with a modern, stone-clad bathroom.
Dinner
For your final dinner, head 25 minutes’ out of the city to the village of Hosszúhetény and restaurant Hosszú Tányér. The name originates from Owner Franciska Hosszú, who wanted her paternal grandparents’ name to live on. Offering hearty, boldly flavoured dishes in pretty courtyard surroundings, the restaurant serves a tasting menu that’s heavily informed by the seasons. With Chef Attila Horváth aiming to express himself through his cooking, a playful touch is never far away.