No history of Soho can be written without a chapter on The French House. It was the favourite haunt of writers and artists such Dylan Thomas, Brendan Behan and Lucian Freud, and many of their portraits decorate the historic pub’s upstairs dining room. With just seven tables, it provides an intimate experience, with a daily handwritten menu that could include calves’ brains with brown butter or Middlewhite pork chops with coco beans. The confident, relaxed service team add to the overall package. Freshly baked madeleines are a staple dessert.