It's tricky to pin down the English translation of Plénitude. You could describe it as an ephemeral state of realizing your highest potential—your peak. It’s also the name of one of the most exciting Three MICHELIN-Starred restaurants in Paris, helmed by celebrated French chef Arnaud Donckele. Perched on the first floor of the Cheval Blanc Hotel, with sweeping views of the Seine, the restaurant space feels like an exclusive hideaway. The cuisine at Plénitude is equally lofty, with a “Symphonie” six-course tasting menu that evolves with the seasons and proves why the French are considered masters of sauce.
After cutting his teeth in several prestigious kitchens, including Les Prés d'Eugénie, Le Louis XV, Plaza Athénée, and Lasserre in Paris, Donckele became the youngest chef in France to earn Three MICHELIN Stars in 2013 at La Vague d’Or, the restaurant at the Cheval Blanc Saint-Tropez. In 2022, Plénitude was awarded three Michelin stars just months after opening, a testament to Donckele’s ability to lift cuisine to new heights.
Donckele credits his Normandy upbringing for his deep connection with terroir. Local food was the family business—his grandparents were farmers and his parents were owners of a pork butcher and delicatessen. Produce and herbs gathered from the family farm and vegetable garden loom large in Donckele’s memories and continue to influence his cooking.
When he’s not in the kitchen of Plénitude, he’s taking advantage of the unmatched gourmet shops and restaurants in his city. Here, Donckele shares some of his favorite Parisian addresses.
You’re known for your attention to high-quality ingredients. Can you tell us about your favorite place for food shopping in Paris and why it holds a special place in your routine?
The Marché Beauvau at the Marché d’Aligre. This popular market fills my Sunday mornings with delight. The diversity of produce on the stalls is incredible. Both in the period covered market (Marché Beauvau), a throwback to the Paris of the 1960s, and the outdoor market (Marché d’Aligre), where stallholders shout out the names of their wares and the price per kilo, you are treated to quite a spectacle. When my wife and I finish our shopping, our greatest pleasure is to sit at the Sea Bar Paris Pêche near the exit of the market and have a few oysters and a glass of white wine before heading home.
Is there a particular food shop in Paris that you rely on for rare or specialty items?
For everything you could possibly need, head to Izraël, a food shop with a wealth of flavours and scents: spices, candied fruit, preserves, vinegars, and olives.
As a chef with an appreciation for artisanal food, what is your go-to spot for expertly made pâtés and other pork specialties?
Maison Vérot, the iconic shop on rue Notre-Dame-des-Champs in Paris’s 6th arrondissement, for the excellent craftsmanship of their French charcuterie.
In a city renowned for its bread, where do you find the best baguette in Paris?
Maison Julien – Les Saveurs de Pierre Demours. It’s quite simply the best baguette in Paris.
Having grown up with parents who were pork butchers, where do you go in Paris to find the finest meats?
For an exceptional butcher, Maison Le Bourdonnec. This artisanal butcher’s shop in time-honored Normandy tradition excels in exceptional meats, not to mention its matured meats, the quality of which is extraordinary.
Are there any chefs in Paris who are doing something truly innovative, blending their personal heritage with contemporary trends?
Mory Sacko [of One MICHELIN-Starred MoSuke] is exceptional on a human level. His cuisine embodies the modernity of his character and the influence of his culture.
Restaurant collaborations can lead to remarkable results. Is there a restaurant in Paris where the teamwork between the front and back of house creates something extraordinary for you?
For a brilliant duo, I’d say Virtus. Frédéric Lorimier worked alongside me [at La Vague d’Or, the Three MICHELIN-Starred restaurant in Cheval Blanc Saint-Tropez] for nine years. At Virtus, every pot, every pairing is like a gentle note that stirs deep emotion in me. Proceedings are skilfully orchestrated by Camille Gouyer on the restaurant floor. Both of them, of course, hold a very special place in my heart. It’s like being with family here.
Paris is home to so many iconic restaurants. Is there one in particular where a younger-generation chef is successfully revitalizing a historic institution?
Lucas Carton [which holds One MICHELIN Star]. The chef, Hugo Bourny, is a former team member of mine. His modern and thoughtful cooking is making a bid to revive this magnificent institution.
Paris is a pastry lover’s paradise. Is there one dessert that stands out to you as the absolute best?
The lemon tart at Des Gâteaux et du Pain. Claire Damon’s tarte au citron is the most mind-blowing in France.
Address book:
Marché Beauvau at the Marché d’Aligre
Rue d'Aligre and Place d'Aligre, 75012
Izraël
30 rue François Miron, 75004
Maison Vérot
3 Rue Notre Dame des Champs, 75006
Maison Julien
13 rue Pierre Demours, 75017
Maison Le Bourdonnec.
43 rue du Cherche-Midi, 75006
MoSuke
11 rue Raymond Losserand, 75014
Virtus
29 rue de Cotte, 75012
Lucas Carton
9 place de la Madeleine
Des Gâteaux et du Pain
89 rue du Bac, 75007
Related articles:
Hero Image: The chef in his kitchen (© Laurent Dupont)