The MICHELIN Guide Taiwan 2023 has just been revealed, where 2 restaurants were promoted to Three MICHELIN Stars and 3 restaurants were promoted to Two MICHELIN Stars — find out what impressed the inspectors in these newly promoted restaurants.
Pu'er Tea Organic Egg, Sweet Potato Fondant, Pain Dentelle, "Congee"
Taïrroir (Taipei)
Three MICHELIN Stars, MICHELIN Guide Taiwan 2023
The Chinese name of the dish translates to "the memory at the highway service area". The concept is inspired by what the Taiwanese would normally have at a highway rest stop — tea eggs (茶葉蛋) and congee with side dishes (清粥小菜), which is normally enjoyed for supper.
A crispy cracker topped with various colorful sauces dotted on the top, along with finely diced pickles and fresh herbs, are layered on an organic egg and pieces of sweet potato fondant. Silky and flavorsome chicken congee stock surrounds the egg, whose quality is premium and executed to perfection with good pu'er tea notes. The golden egg yolk is runny, and the cracker with diced pickles are a highlight, enhancing the crispiness, acidity, and savory notes, followed by the flavor of the silky congee stock. Great technique, concept, and details are all shown in this memorable dish (hero image: Taïrroir).
RELATED: Recipe: Tea Egg
Water Bamboo, Cherry Tomato, Lentil
JL Studio (Taichung)
Three MICHELIN Stars, MICHELIN Guide Taiwan 2023
A stunning starter served in a cut crystal coupe glass, the execution is sharp, precise, and super-assured. The serving temperature is just right — cool, but not too cold. At the base, layers of lightly set tomato jelly are blended with a delicious mildly spiced tomato sauce; and pieces of super-sweet high-quality cherry tomatoes are combined with lightly cooked water bamboo.
A spiced lentil foam is held together beautifully and delivers vibrant spice, but it does not overpower the preceding components. (Photo: MICHELIN)
Dotted with a mix of edible leaves and fresh herbs, the dish is so original and so beautifully balanced. The flavors dance on the palate, exuding lovely purity. It is seamless and so memorable.
RELATED: Inspired By Singapore: Jimmy Lim’s Signature Dishes At Three-Starred JL Studio In Taiwan
Tiger Fugu Milt with Caviar / Taitung Grouper
Mudan (Taipei)
Two MICHELIN Stars, MICHELIN Guide Taiwan 2023
On an exquisite porcelain plate, tender and smooth tiger fugu milt is paired with shiny caviar, chewy Japanese rice, and a slightly thickened sauce. Upon tasting, the initial sensation is the creamy and smooth texture of the milt, with the tender and salty essence of the caviar succeeding it. The dish is concluded by a rich burst of freshness that envelops the mouth. The flavor is perfect, bringing even more anticipation to the following dishes.
Ajo Blanco | Apple, Coconut Milk, Almond
Molino de Urdániz (Taipei)
Two MICHELIN Stars, MICHELIN Guide Taiwan 2023
This is an elegant dish with an assured presentation. The round-shaped coconut milk mousse is surrounded with creamy, yellow almond soup, topped with thin, round slices of green apples, white flowers, and herbs. The soft mousse delivers tasty notes of coconut, while the crisp green apple slices add some fruity character.
The highlight of this dish is the almond soup, which lends a perfect, silky texture and a precise and elegant nutty flavor. Usually, this combination of ingredients is commonly used for dessert instead of savory dishes, but skilled cooking is applied on the ingredients by managing the balance of fruitiness, saltiness, sweetness, and acidity — it is even presented as a light and savory course in the middle of menu. It is so well done.
Abalone - Fish Maw - Sea Cucumber
Liberté (Kaohsiung)
Two MICHELIN Stars, MICHELIN Guide Taiwan 2023
This is the restaurant’s signature dish, presented with aplomb to the diner — a bowl of soup topped with a dome of golden, crisp puff pastry, cooked to perfection — straight out of the oven and piping hot. The lid is cut off at the counter and inside lies the clear refined broth that evokes wonderful clarity — a beautiful aroma with great depth of flavor, containing a piece of turned taro, soft shiitake mushrooms, fine tender abalone, fish maw, and unctuous sea cucumber. It can’t get any better than this; it’s such a great interpretation of a Taiwanese classic.
