Venice has an indescribable beauty, a beauty which simultaneously honors its past and its present. It's a city as inspired by its illustrious history as it is by contemporary art. There is just one tourist Venice, which needs no introduction, a place where the city’s most famous landmarks lend themselves to picture-perfect images: its gondolas, masks, colorful Murano glass, bridges, and the pigeons in St Mark’s Square. For many visitors, it's just a quick post on Instagram and away they go, but they are missing out, as beyond these central areas there's also the hidden Venice of the North, South, East, and West to discover.
On average, 40,000 visitors arrive in Venice every day, a number almost equal to the city’s population of 49,000 inhabitants. On this tiny handkerchief-sized piece of land, the surprising thing is that most visitors only spend their time between the Rialto Bridge and St Mark’s Square, or on a vaporetto (water bus) trip, leaving the rest of the city to Venetians and more adventurous explorers – neighborhoods where, between the canals and the sky, life is made up of work, study, shopping, errands, deliveries, clothes hung out to dry, and meetings with friends. This stuff of daily life takes place in parts of the city where conversations in the local dialect can still be heard or where it’s possible to find silence, where you can stroll next to deserted canals and pop into an authentic local bacaro for a glass of wine and a cicchetto.
This is the Venice that we would like to help you discover and to do so we’ve chosen some hotels from The MICHELIN Guide selection that are situated in quieter, more livable sections of the city, where you can get away from the madding crowd, whether you’re here to enjoy the Venice Carnival, an exhibition at the Biennale or a movie at the city’s International Film Festival.
In keeping with its originality, Venice is divided into districts known as sestieri (literally, 'sixths') and not quarters. The more crowded districts are San Marco, San Polo, and Santa Croce, while Cannaregio, Dorsoduro, and Castello all have a quieter feel.
Cannaregio
This 'peripheral' and heavily populated sestiere is not home to any major tourist attractions (with the exception of the evocative Ghetto), and for that reason remains slightly off the tourist trail. It has a distinctive layout, with long, parallel rii (canals) that give it a light and airy feel. This was once the district of the foundries known as 'getti' (hence the term 'ghetto'), which were authorized in this area as it was easier to manage in the event of fire.
Ca' Bonfadini
Fondamenta Savorgnan 462Ca’ Bonfadini stands alongside the Cannaregio Canal near Savorgnan Park, one of Venice’s rare public gardens, and not far from the Chiesa di San Geremia e Santa Lucia, which houses the relics of the patron saint of Siracusa, long claimed in vain by the Sicilian city. Religious quarrels aside, the 16th-century palazzo is home to works of art and stucco dating from the 18th and 19th centuries, all displayed in a highly elegant setting. The hotel’s public spaces include an internal patio and a terrace overlooking the canal, which is perfect for an aperitif before heading to the Dama Restaurant to sample its modern regional cuisine.
Carnival Palace Hotel
Fondamenta di Cannaregio 929Overlooking the tranquil Cannaregio Canal in a secluded and less touristy part of the city, yet just a stone’s throw from the railway station and the Ghetto, the Carnival Palace Hotel offers classic accommodation with views in two directions, either over the inner garden or over the canal. The terrace is perfect for an aperitif waterside, looking down to the Tre Archi Bridge.
Dorsoduro
Although the sestiere that acts as a hinge between the wide Giudecca Canal and the Grand Canal boasts important museums such as the Gallerie dell’Accademia, the Peggy Guggenheim Collection, and the Punta della Dogana, it remains a tranquil neighborhood that is not overrun with crowds. The wide and sunny Zattere promenade extends for over a kilometer, offering magnificent views of the Giudecca and, given its breadth, is perfect for a quiet stroll breathing in the sea air.
Il Palazzo Experimental
Fondamenta Zattere al Ponte Lungo 1412This beautiful palazzo was the home of Giovanni Stucky, owner of the imposing Molino Stucky on Giudecca island, and from 1932 was the HQ of the Compagnia di Navigazione dell’Adriatico. In 2018, it was converted into a lively, trendy hotel, and in 2024 was awarded One Michelin Key at the launch of Michelin's new hotel distinction. The hotel’s position on the Zattere promenade gives it an open, airy view of Giudecca, while to the rear you’ll find an elegant little garden leading to a private jetty. In addition to its warm welcome and beautiful guestrooms, the hotel also offers a restaurant serving regional cuisine and the popular Experimental Cocktail Club with its original array of beverages.
Ca’ Pisani
Rio Terrà Foscarini 979/aSet back from the canals along an unusually straight street that links the Zattere with the Grand Canal, this unique hotel makes a striking impression with a classical, 500-year-old merchant house exterior that contrasts with futuristic designs and furnishings dreamed up in the 1930s and '40s. Venice has always been a city of avant-garde art and so, this choice, although unexpected, is not at all out of context. For views of the district as a whole, make your way to the hotel’s roof terrace, which is the perfect setting in which to enjoy an aperitif as you watch the sun go down.
Castello
This sestiere, which takes its name from an old fortress that is no longer standing, occupies the 'tail' of fish-shaped Venice. This is the most maritime of Venice’s districts, home to the Arsenale and Museo Navale, and is also the quietest and the most residential of the city’s neighborhoods, especially in its eastern section which is furthest away from St Mark’s Square. The district is also home to the Biennale Gardens, where the famous Biennale art exhibition is held every two years.
Ca’ di Dio
Riva Ca' di Dio 2181Ca’ di Dio was once a retirement home and Venetians still remember it as such. In 2021, careful and ambitious restoration work transformed the building into a hotel, where the blend of its religious architecture and Patricia Urquiola’s modern, elegant design has given the hotel real charm – charm which has earned it One Michelin Key! Three internal courtyards are the focus of the public spaces, while the VeRo-Venetian Roots restaurant overlooks the canal and serves as a link between those fortunate enough to stay at the hotel and other guests who are just passing through. Situated on an extension of the Riva degli Schiavoni waterfront, in a much quieter and secluded part of Venice, it boasts fine views of Isola di San Giorgio.
Isola della Giudecca
Although Giudecca island is part of the Dorsoduro sestiere in administrative terms, it’s natural to think of it as a separate entity in itself. Long an industrial and working-class suburb (as the imposing Molino Stucky flour mill, now converted into a hotel, testifies), Giudecca is a peaceful oasis from which visitors can observe the hordes of tourists swarming around St Mark’s Square and the Doge’s Palace with a certain aristocratic distance.
Hotel Cipriani, A Belmond Hotel, Venice
Giudecca 10Without a doubt, the Belmond Cipriani – the proud recipient of Three Michelin Keys – is the place to stay in Venice for anyone who wants to enjoy the city while maintaining their privacy, as demonstrated by the fact that during the Venice Film Festival, the hotel’s restaurant spaces (the fine dining Oro, the more casual yet highly panoramic Cip's Club, and Il Porticciolo), are reserved for hotel guests only. A stay at the Cipriani includes unlimited transport by private water-taxi, a superb garden with an infinity pool, and top-notch service from staff who are used to managing all kinds of whims. The cost of such treats means that this is a hotel for celebrating an occasion rather than for the the every day but, as the Ancient Romans used to say, “once a year one is allowed to go crazy.”
Exploring The Lagoon
Peace and quiet are guaranteed on the islands dotted around the lagoon. Although Murano, famous world-round for its glass, is certainly busy with tourists who come here to visit its glass factories and shops during the day, in the evening the island falls silent and you’ll have it all to yourself, or almost. Meanwhile, on the other two islands that we recommend, Mazzorbo and Isola delle Rose, you can be sure of a tranquil ambiance throughout the day and night.
Hyatt Centric Murano Venice
Riva Longa 49, Isola di Murano
Thanks to its location in an old glass factory, this beautiful hotel embodies the essence of Murano to perfection. In this pleasant, modern, and well-equipped setting (there’s also a fitness area and a spa), you can take advantage of the many different activities recommended by the concierge or you can catch the vaporetto to explore Venice, knowing that you’ll be coming back to a quiet, peaceful island where life follows the slow, tranquil rhythms of the lagoon.
Venissa Wine Resort
Fondamenta di Santa Caterina 3, Isola di MazzorboFrom Fondamente Nove, take the no. 12 vaporetto and you’ll be in Mazzorbo in about half an hour. Once you've disembarked, turn left and follow the canal for a few minutes and you’re here. On this island, which boasts just 200 inhabitants or so, the Venissa Wine Resort is one of the main attractions. It comprises five guestrooms and two restaurants – the fine dining Venissa and the more casual Osteria Contemporanea – and is surrounded by rows of vines. In the evening, the atmosphere here is magical. With the complimentary bottle of prosecco that you’ll find in your room, you can sit at one of the small tables alongside the canal and watch the sunset as you’re lulled by the sound of the water and the occasional seagull. If, on the other hand, you’d like to see a bit more life, then cross the footbridge and you’ll find yourself on Burano, a more populated island famed for its lace.
JW Marriott Venice Resort & Spa
Isola delle Rose, Laguna di San MarcoCreated in 1870, Isola delle Rose is a small, man-made island located just 20 minutes from St Mark’s Square. It was initially used as a fuel depot and later for the cultivation of olive trees and vegetables, before in the 1930s it became home to a convalescence hospital. Fast forward to 2015 and this small private island was transformed into a beautiful resort with a strong focus on sustainability; here, nature still has the upper hand, thanks to a multitude of different trees, vegetable plots, and gardens. This is a true paradise and a magical place in which to take refuge, knowing you are only a few minutes away from Venice's most popular visitor spots. You can enjoy the excellent cuisine at the Agli Amici Dopolavoro restaurant or, if you want to have a go at cooking yourself, join one of the cookery courses on offer.
Hero Image: © Hyatt Centric Murano Venice
