Travel 4 minutes 19 February 2024

View From the Inspectors: A High Altitude Lunch at Le Jules Verne, Paris

One of the capital's most iconic restaurants is nestled within the ironwork of the Eiffel Tower, commanding unforgettable views of the City of Light from 125m up. Below, one MICHELIN Guide Inspector tells all on lunch inside Le Jules Verne

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Since 2019, Le Jules Verne, located on the second floor of the Eiffel Tower, has been presided over by Chef Frédéric Anton. He is also the Chef behind the Three MICHELIN Starred Le Pré Catelan, so it's no surprise that the cooking matches the stunning location. The restaurant has been made to measure for its setting inside the 'Iron Lady'; the chefs therefore work with a small larder, meaning a short menu and working on a last-minute basis. The excellent cooking in such unique surroundings, coupled with the spectacular, sweeping views of the city, makes Le Jules Verne all the more impressive.

Marie-Line Sila / Le Jules Verne
Marie-Line Sila / Le Jules Verne

Arrival

“Arriving on a gloomy, autumnal day at the foot of the Eiffel Tower, I am greeted by hordes of tourists and locals alike. Scanning for my colleague and lunch companion, I spy that he’s headed towards the entrance for the general public, while I head to the south pillar – the entrance reserved for the restaurant. Met by members of the team, I’m escorted to the lift taking me up to the restaurant on the second floor. Upon arrival, another member of the service team takes my coat and ushers me into the dining room seamlessly. How effortless the team makes this process appear is truly impressive, and it’s details like these that mean you need to book your lunch one month in advance (or three for dinner)!"

"As we walk to the dining room, the view is entrancing. Floor-to-ceiling windows provide a panoramic view of the Seine and the city’s other iconic landmarks: Quai Branly, Trocadéro, Invalides, the Panthéon, La Défense and Montmartre. On the south side however, the view is quite different with Montparnasse Tower acting as the main attraction. Engineering buffs should sit at the counter or the alcove, where you’ll get an unparalleled view of the inner workings of the Eiffel Tower, but no other views (specify your desired seating location when booking)."

Complementing the views is the décor in simple, sleek shades of grey augmenting the effect and look of the steel girders. There’s nothing ostentatious to it as the focus is rooted on the cooking itself and the wonders of the capital outside.

Marie-Line Sina / Le Jules Verne
Marie-Line Sina / Le Jules Verne
Marie-Line Sila / Le Jules Verne
Marie-Line Sila / Le Jules Verne

The Team

A chef needs to be surrounded with the right people and Anton looked to his own talent pool at Le Pré Catelan: Head Chef Kevin Garcia, Head Pastry Chef Germain Decreton and the razor-sharp restaurant manager Valentin Cavalade, whose dynamism and poise is a welcome presence. Everyone’s been part of the adventure since the start and their young, fresh energy translates into Swiss-watch-like precision during service. A total of 130 people work at Le Jules Verne (reception, service, restaurant floor), which seats 75 guests. The best part? Le Jules Verne is something of a rarity on the Parisian dining scene insofar as it's open seven days a week including Sunday.

Also adding to the impressiveness of the staff is Head Sommelier Benjamin Roffet and his team, who act as guides enlightening diners by competently talking about wine in simple terms. The wine list has over 400 options, which is not huge because the cellar is tailored to the location, but it strikes a good balance of big names and wines for under €100. Don't hesitate to challenge the team and share your personal tastes as they are always happy to listen.

Marie-Line Sila / Le Jules Verne
Marie-Line Sila / Le Jules Verne

The Food

"The first dish is a symbolic one: a book-shaped ceramic plate with quotes from Jules Verne's Voyages Extraordinaires. The courses that follow match the initial presentation by the team. This is quintessential French 'art de vivre' and cuisine, subtly paying homage to the country's finest ingredients. Le Jules Verne showcases cooking that is firmly rooted in the classics and skilfully modernised, precisely cooked, perfectly seasoned and complemented by intense, nicely refined sauces. It’s unpretentious, clean and easy to understand, possessing distinct flavours.

"The set menus are fixed, which may seem a shame, but the technical constraints are such that it's understandable. The 3 course lunch menu at €160 is well put together and does not fall short of expectations. However, if your budget allows it, and given how hard it is to secure a reservation, you might as well opt for the upper tier of menus to get the full experience. The 5 course menu appears to be a good compromise, especially as when I ordered, I was able to swap out a dish for one from the 7 course menu, which the maître d' agreed to without any issue."
Marie-Line Sila / Le Jules Verne
Marie-Line Sila / Le Jules Verne
Marie-Line Sila / Le Pré Catelan
Marie-Line Sila / Le Pré Catelan

Crab Flavoured with Tarragon

"The crab comes in two variations: the first cold, with flaked crabmeat bursting with the flavour of the sea, enhanced with tarragon and topped with a light Granny Smith apple and lemon emulsion; the second hot, with a slightly frothy soup combined with a semi-set artichoke cream elevated with caviar – a duo that reveals all the crab's flavours."

Scallop, Puffed Buckwheat Galette, Dieppoise Sauce and Oscietra Caviar

"Served under a cloche, a thin and crispy puffed buckwheat pancake encases a delicate scallop. The galette is surrounded by a finely creamed Dieppoise sauce, with mussels, grey shrimp and enoki mushrooms, topped with a fresh brunoise of scallops with Oscietra caviar. The dish is perfectly aromatic and harmonious, finely crafted, and above all very elegant."

Langoustine Prepared as a Raviolo, Parmesan Cream, Fine Beetroot Jelly

“Another dish served, as is the way at Le Jules Verne, beneath a cloche. This soft, tender raviolo wrapped filled with firm, crunchy langoustine tail is accompanied by a thin, bright red veil of beetroot jelly, infusing the shellfish with its fine sweetness. It is served with a foamy cream of langoustine and parmesan, bringing a velvety softness that makes this dish a real success."

Veal Sweetbread, Caramelised, Grenobloise Sauce, Jus Gras

"A hearty sweetbread sautéed until golden and crispy textured is balanced through a tender middle. Served with a refined jus gras and an excellent hazelnut butter sabayon, this is a truly indulgent dish that is perfectly executed.”

Pear Poached with Honey, Meadowsweet Zephyr, Tarte Fine

“Save room as Le Jules Verne offers two desserts in one: a Williams pear poached in hawthorn honey, placed on a pear soup with a hint of bergamot and topped with a fine caramelised bread tuile and a meadowsweet espuma, set with pollen grains and finished off with a pear sorbet. On the second plate, pear tarte fine with an almond cream, confit pears covered with a delicate jelly and a crunchy shortcrust base made with plenty of butter. Delicious, but also thoughtful as the ingredients are shown off to their full potential in two technically accomplished preparations."


Conclusion 

"A successful meal in a fabulous setting, fittingly so given the wait time to secure a reservation. Coupled with the feeling the diner has of having had an exceptional experience, and you have a unique, highly enjoyable (and delicious) outing.”


Hero Image : Marie-Line Sila / Le Jules Verne

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