The MICHELIN Guide Prague 2021 was released in November and features 27 restaurants in the Czech Republic’s capital city. Whilst no new Michelin Stars were awarded, both Field and La Degustation Bohême Bourgeoise retained One Michelin Star.
Two restaurants, The Eatery and Dejvická 34 by Tomáš Černý, – both new additions to the selection – were awarded a Bib Gourmand for their good quality, good value cooking. Na Kopci, Divinis and Eska also retained their Bib Gourmand awards.
A further four restaurants were deemed worthy of a place in the MICHELIN Guide by the anonymous, independent Michelin inspectors, who evaluate restaurants based on the MICHELIN Guide’s worldwide criteria. We take a closer look at what sets these restaurants apart.
New Prague Bib Gourmands
The EateryEven as you walk up to this neighbourhood restaurant – set in a residential area away from the city centre – you can tell that it’s a cool sort of place: all grey concrete and dark frosted windows. Step inside and those first impressions are confirmed: the industrial-style room is dominated by a large kitchen counter, and comes with judicious lighting and a buzzing atmosphere.
The concise menu changes frequently according to the latest seasonal produce available, and the fresh, understated Czech dishes – perhaps ox tongue with fermented cabbage and toasted bread; fillet of grass carp with risotto of barley and mushrooms; or panna cotta with berry sorbet and crumbs – are well-priced, skilfully cooked and very easy-to-eat.
Add to this an in-depth wine list and bright, friendly service from a team who clearly enjoy what they do, and you can see why the Michelin Inspectors consider this restaurant worthy of a Bib Gourmand. Representative of modern Prague, it’s the kind of place everyone would want on their doorstep.
Dejvická 34 by Tomáš Černý
You can’t help but take a shine to this modern, earnestly run restaurant, set in a smart suburb of the city, north of the Vltava. Inside, it’s bright and warm, and the experienced, eponymous chef-owner – who has worked in some of the best Italian restaurants in the city – is a natural host: charming, ever-present and with everything clearly under control.
The large menu offers a mix of Czech and Italian dishes, with something for everyone. Choices might include linguine carbonara; grilled veal fillet with broccoli, truffle sauce and raisins; or crispy cannolo with hazelnut cream and blackberries. Ingredients are top quality, flavours are bold and confident, and pasta is a highlight.
The Michelin Inspectors felt that this cosy neighbourhood spot offers great value for money and were impressed by its cheery, eager-to-please staff. Given the enjoyable dining experience it offers, they were unsurprised by the number of loyal regulars.
New Additions to the Selection
VýčepVýčep means ‘tap room’ in Czech and this modern pub certainly offers plenty of great ales. The jars of preserved fruit and vegetables and the pork maturing in fridges suggest that there’s more to it than somewhere to just pop in for a beer (although plenty of people do). The frequently changing menu offers generously sized, classic Czech dishes which have been brought-up-to-date. Choices could include Wallachian sour soup created from forest mushrooms, with eggs, potatoes & herbs; shredded wild boar from Říčany Forest with fennel, mint & sour cream; and větrník (choux pastry with caramel and vanilla cream).
This counter restaurant focuses on Asian – particularly Vietnamese – cooking, with a good value lunchtime à la carte and a seven-course tasting menu in the evenings. Watch the chefs busily preparing the food, which they also personally serve to guests. Dishes like king oyster bao, and
duck leg with greens and rice are authentic and full of flavour, while the wine list offers juices, beers and wines to suit all pockets and palates.
Even the most hard-hearted of customers would be seduced by this characterful, warmly run restaurant, which occupies a house dating from 1905, in a quiet part of town. There’s a five course dinner menu, with a few added extras thrown in, and dishes like carrot, cauliflower and caramel; sea bass with lemongrass and sesame; or beef tongue with dill and potato offer traditional Czech flavours with a contemporary uplift and flashes of originality.