The setting – on an island in the middle of two roads – may be slightly unusual but that’s all part of the experience and, once seated, you’ll enjoy being ensconced in your own little bubble watching the world go by.

Tom Sellers’ menus take on a tasting format and the visually impressive dishes are crafted with care and precision; ingredients are at the luxurious end of the scale and modern techniques bring out the best in every item. Imaginative, playful touches come through in dishes such as the bread and dripping, where your candle melts to provide the dip; the ‘Storeo’ – a savoury version of an Oreo; and the ‘Paddington Bear’ pre-dessert of pain perdu and citrus marmalade.

In the evening, the menu is tailored so that returning guests receive a different experience from first-timers, so do ask if there’s something you want to have again.