In the lifespan of a beach town, there’s a short, glorious era, somewhere between the arrival of reliable running water and the opening of the first three-digit room total resort, when the sun seems to be shining most bright.
Todos Santos, a speck of a settlement on Mexico’s desert Baja California peninsula, is right in the sweet spot. There are no streetlights, but there are several restaurants recognized by The MICHELIN Guide. Nightlife is measured not in nightclubs (there are zero), but in the dazzling spray of stars that blink on after dark. What it lacks in chintzy sundry shops, it makes up for in genuine cultural offerings that reflect a part of the country rich in ranching history and wildlife.
“What I think is really special about Todos is that there's still kind of a wild component to it,” says Jessica Canepa, who moved there 16 years ago to help open Villa Santa Cruz, one of the three hotels in town to win One MICHELIN Key in Mexico’s inaugural list announced this summer. “There's like 'a going back in time' component to it.”
For decades, the only regular draw for tourists to this colonial farming and fishing village was the Hotel California, a saloonish 1950s property that highlights its similarities to the mythic spot in the hit song by The Eagles, though – for legal purposes – has made clear it is unconnected to it.
But over the past 20 years, development dollars, a new highway that cut the drive time from Cabo San Lucas to about an hour, and a tourism boom spurred by pandemic shifts in travel tastes has turned Todos Santos into a destination for the kind of vacationer who is early to bed, early to rise.
“You come to Todos Santos to be outside. You’re reconnecting to nature. It’s a slower pace,” Canepa says.
At the Villa Santa Cruz, a boutique beach compound, guests can play pickleball and bocce, harvest honey from the on-site apiary, and learn about the community’s cowboys on a horseback ride from its stable to a nearby working ranch.
Around town, yogis and surfers will be very happy, with widely offered flow sessions and La Pastora, a well-known break with waves that can climb past double overhead height, nearby.
For families, seasonal animal spectacles are a favorite. In December, visitors can help conservation organizations guide sea turtle hatchlings as they crawl from their nests into the Pacific. Sightings of migrating whales in the winter are also common, and an unusual deep ocean drop-off that’s close to shore makes for unmatched views.
And of course, the food is extraordinary, with local farms and the freshest hauls from the sea comprising a cuisine that’s light, vibrant, and fixed in the stylish Mexi-Cali scene.
Here are our recommendations for where to eat and where to stay in Todos Santos, Mexico.
Where to eat
The menu at this small space carved out of a jungle of greenery changes with the moon cycle, reflecting a deep connection with the natural surroundings and an out-of-the-box style that comes with plenty of heart. Opt for the oxtail with a red wine reduction and smoked carrot purée or the steamed potato ravioli served with crispy matchsticks, diced smoked mackerel, and a sweet candy tuile.
The glistening Baja waters are the habitat of the obvious must-have here, excellent oysters that range from meaty and juicy to tender and minerally. An order comes with cocktail sauce, mignonette, a Baja-style Ponzu, and habanero paste. Set in a grand building along a central inland intersection, a visit counts as a good reason to make it off the beach chair and into town.
Located in the Hotel San Cristóbal (One MICHELIN Key), Benno is a breezy indoor/outdoor spot for all-day fare with an enviable coastal view. The catch of the day is always a good idea, served with a “smooth textured, mild, herb and pumpkin seed sauce and very fresh vegetables. For dessert: a plate of bite-sized churros with house-made dipping sauces.
The view from Tenoch is unlike any other of a spot on our list: a stretch of desert beneath a hilly horizon stylishly landscaped as part of the Paradero Todos Santos hotel (One MICHELIN Key). The serious food coming from the kitchen is made from local ingredients – some as close as the restaurant’s own farm. Soft-shell crab is deceiving and delicious, appearing simple but coming alive on the palate, while the manchamantel mole has the perfect blend of spicy, sweet, and fruity.
Cocina de Campo by Agricole (Bib Gourmand)
Tables here are set in the lush garden where the simple ingredients that star in the Mexi-Cali menu are grown. “The cooking is simplified to allow the ingredients to take center stage,” our inspectors noted, describing a serving of fresh sliced tomatoes with olives and pesto that proved “the best dishes don’t need much intervention.”
Where to stay
Villa Santa Cruz (One MICHELIN Key)
Two California-born couples run this oasis on the water that’s expanded over more than a decade to include villas, bungalows, and luxury oceanside tent suites with glass windows and hard walls. That’s built in character and an ethos tied into the community, reflected in the hotel’s devotion to programming and experiences that connect guests with local culture, like cooking classes and a horseback riding excursion set to open in the coming weeks that includes a visit to a nearby working ranch.
Paradero Todos Santos (One MICHELIN Key)
Brutalist architecture in sleek raw concrete blends into the rugged landscape surrounding Paradero Todos Santos, a stunning all-suite boutique hotel perfect for the design minded. The interiors are a counterpoint, with soft luxury furnishings lit by orange-glow lights. Guests will love the infinity pool with a mesmerizing desert view and the restaurant, complete with an open kitchen and Oaxacan clay oven.
Hotel San Cristóbal (One MICHELIN Key)
A pool and lounge area that wraps around palm trees is the lively centerpiece of this little beachside hotel. Bright charm shines through in colorful tile motifs while boutiquey touches, like Tivoli radios, reflect a design team with style. The restaurant, Benno, is open all day, and s’mores are the best nightcap at a beachfront bonfire.
Hero image: Villa Santa Cruz
