Island feeling
The crossing from Cirkewwa Port on the northwestern tip of Malta to Gozo is an experience in itself, a ferry ride that reminds you that you are on an island. On the way from Malta to Gozo, you can even catch a glimpse of Comino, so in under half an hour you will have seen the entire Maltese archipelago. The ferry service is fast, efficient and comfortable, plus it runs day and night. Payment is only required on the return trip to Malta, as the operator works on the assumption that all passengers and vehicles will be returning at some point. However, one can never rule out the possibility that visitors will fall in love with the island and decide to settle there permanently. Indeed, Gozo has a particularly distinctive character and has an extraordinary amount to offer, even for the most seasoned and discerning traveller. Another bonus is the short distances. On this tiny island spanning approximately 14 by 7km, nothing is ever very far away. That aspect alone can also give one peace of mind.
Mgarr, a harbour town with character
In Gozo, the ferry docks in Mgarr, which translates to "harbour" in Arabic. Although it may seem natural upon arrival to travel straight to the capital, Victoria, or further inland, it would be a shame to overlook Mgarr itself. This enchanting harbour town is one of a kind, and anyone who skips it during a visit to Gozo is missing out. And if you're looking for somewhere to have an aperitif or dinner after an evening stroll along the quay, the harbour area has plenty of options.
Tmun, for example, is a highly popular and sophisticated fish restaurant. Brightly coloured fishing boats beached in front of the terrace add to the authentic feel of the setting. Chef Paul Buttigieg likes to work with local produce, including transforming the bycatch brought ashore by Gozitan fishermen into a flavoursome fish soup akin to a deeply aromatic bouillabaisse. The hearty soup is theatrically poured over chopped fish and seafood at the table, so that diners can appreciate its exquisite fragrance. This ingredient-led cuisine is pared down to the essentials and puts the best the sea has to offer centre stage. Paul Buttigieg has a penchant for creating dishes that highlight the natural flavours of their ingredients through precise cooking techniques and meticulously crafted garnishes. Think prawns in panko with a sweet-and-sour vegetable relish, or barbecued octopus with a lime and lemongrass hollandaise sauce. With his rich tarte Tatin and freshly churned cinnamon ice cream, the chef also showcases his knack and passion for classic desserts.
Anyone looking to dine in style and with a panoramic view of Mgarr and Malta should head to the Grand Hotel Gozo. Once you are there, take the lift to Level Nine by Oliver Glowig, a restaurant which, like Tmun, is part of the MICHELIN selection. Having cut his teeth at a number of esteemed Italian restaurants, at Level Nine, German chef Oliver Glowig delivers a highly sophisticated take on Italian cuisine, both à la carte choice and as a tasting menu. One example dish is a celebration of tomatoes, presented in various textures and served with mozzarella and fresh gamberi rossi. Another tempting option is the cacio e pepe with house-made tonnarelli pasta.
Restaurant manager Simone Cassago makes this dish tableside in a cheese wheel and then elegantly plates the creamy and spicy ribbon pasta. He also serves exquisite wines such as the outstanding and rare 2022 Marsovin 101 special edition sparkling brut rosé. Made primarily from the indigenous ġellewża and select chardonnay grapes, the wine has had a year to age on its lees, imparting it with extra body and complexity. For those wanting to extend their evening after dining, the ever-bustling Gleneagles Bar on the quayside is ideal. Brimming with character, this fisherman's pub is the kind of place where Ernest Hemingway would have felt right at home mingling with the locals. The name is a tribute to the Scottish steamship that first connected Malta and Gozo with a regular ferry service.
Victoria / Rabat, a vibrant capital
Located in the centre of the island, 6km from the ferry terminal, is Victoria (Rabat), Gozo's capital. With a population of 7 200, it is also Gozo's largest and most populous town. The British named it Victoria in 1897 to mark Queen Victoria's 60th birthday. Previously called Rabat, an Arabic name still in use today, it lies at the foot of the citadel, which was built as a refuge for the Gozitan population during foreign invasions. Anyone who undertakes the arduous climb up to this fortification will appreciate how effective it would have been at keeping aggressive intruders at bay.
Dominating the centre is the Baroque Cathedral of the Assumption. As is often the case with churches in Malta, the modest façade conceals an opulent and ornate interior. From the citadel's parapet, the views over Gozo are spectacular. In addition, the citadel houses the Folklore Museum, the Museum Of Archaeology, the Cathedral Museum, the Citadel Armoury and the Natural History Museum – all five small museums can be accessed with a single ticket.
Once you're back at street level, it is definitely worth taking a short walk through the picturesque narrow streets surrounding St George's Basilica. Its stunning interior is particularly notable for its intricate mosaics. Should you need to catch your breath after your climb up to the citadel, there are plenty of café terraces in the vicinity. For those who appreciate a particularly atmospheric setting or a quiet al fresco spot, Café Jubilee on the main street, Triq Ir-Republikka, boasts a surprisingly delightful terrace to the rear of the premises. The same street is home to two opera houses that enrich the cultural scene with shows, from operas and operettas to musicals. Teatru Astra and Teatru tal-Opra Aurora showcase Italian opera during the summer, and both have charming cafés.
Xagħra, an authentic atmosphere
Xagħra, a few kilometres from Victoria, is Gozo's largest municipality in terms of area. From its elevated position on a plateau, it affords breathtaking and varied views of the island. Here, that authentic village charm of yesteryear lives on, and nowhere more so than on the central square, Pjazza Vittorja, which, as well as numerous terraces and restaurants, boasts one of Gozo's most beautiful parish churches. Nestled at the foot of the church is Al Sale, a restaurant that has recently joined the MICHELIN Guide's selection. Hailing from Toronto, the chef-patron clearly pours his heart and soul into his cooking. If you are a fan of simple food made with fresh produce – especially meat and seafood – try the prawn and scallop-filled ravioli with a prawn bisque or the delicious veal rack with salsa verde. All the dishes are down-to-earth, ingredient-led and freshly prepared. The international wine list, as well as the friendly and attentive yet laid-back service are the icing on the cake.
Occupying a beautifully restored farmhouse just outside the town centre, the restaurant Ta Frenc has been managed by the same team for years. The kitchen serves up traditional Mediterranean fare, showcasing the island's finest produce. Many of their delectable dishes feature a modern twist. Some, such as the crêpes Ta' Frenc, are prepared at your table. Just outside Xagħra are the megalithic Gigantija Temples, an extraordinary temple complex dating back to the fourth millennium, which suggests that Xagħra was one of the first human settlements on Gozo.
Azure Window, sadly missed
To see even older natural wonders, drive west through the most rugged part of the island. After 10km, you come to Dwejra Point, a pristine spot where you could admire the Azure Window until it collapsed in 2017. Fortunately, the Wied il-Mielaħ Window stands as another natural arch, reminding us how the combination of rain, waves and wind can carve large holes in the cliff rock formations over time. That erosion process of course marches on, and one day the top of this rock formation will inevitably collapse, which means that this arch, with its unparalleled views of the sky and sea, will also cease to exist. The rocky bay of Dwejra is home to the Inland Sea, a lagoon beloved by deep-sea divers that – as its name would suggest – feels more like a secluded sea. From here, you can also take a boat through a natural tunnel in the rocks out to the open sea.
Ta' Pinu, a dramatic setting
Another spectacular sight, of a different nature, is the nearby Basilica of Ta' Pinu, Malta's most important pilgrimage site. Occupying a dramatic location, it witnessed a number of miraculous healings in the late 19C, which prompted the building of a chapel. Soon too small to accommodate all the pilgrims, that chapel was replaced in 1920 by the neo-Romanesque church that stands here today. The building's imposing pale stone structure, set against the backdrop of a desolate landscape and the azure sea, adds a powerful and meaningful dimension to this setting. In contrast to the ornate interiors of many Maltese and Gozitan churches, adorned with pink marble, gold leaf and other embellishments, Ta' Pinu, like its surroundings, has a simple, calm and serene feel. The church's solitary position in a rugged landscape of cacti and thorny shrubs adds to its unique appeal.
