A Long Weekend in Tallinn

Day1
After getting yourself acquainted with your surroundings, head for Michelin Bib Gourmand awarded Härg. This buzzy brasserie has a sleek, modern feel and faux industrial styling, with exposed ducting, stone walls, a semi-open kitchen and striking copper chandeliers. Great value dishes mean this is a place that’s always busy, but the service is on-the-ball and you’re always guaranteed to be well looked after. The menu is concise, with a focus on the chargrill, and steaks take centre stage. The burger is always a hit at lunchtime, as is their speciality ‘Dirty Steak’ – a rib-eye cooked directly on the charcoal. When the weather’s right, make sure you head for their wonderful courtyard terrace.

After you’ve had your fill, it’s time to explore the Old Town. The Gothic Town hall is worth a visit, as are the numerous churches, including 13C St. Nicholas’, which houses the Niguliste Museum of medieval and early modern ecclesiastical art – the view from its glass lift is also noteworthy. There are various viewing platforms around the city which offer far-reaching views, but a must is the Old Town Wall. At nearly 200m, this defence wall connects the Hellemann Tower with Munkadetagune Tower, and you can climb the steep stairs to the viewing platform which looks out over the city.

While summer is a great time to visit, a long weekend in winter is also a great choice. The Old Town is transformed into a winter wonderland, with the first Sunday of Advent marking the lighting of the Christmas tree lights in the Town Hall Square and the opening of the Christmas market.

For dinner, make a beeline for SMAK (the Swedish word for ‘taste’). Set within a 19C stone-built warehouse near the harbour, it’s a spacious place with a rustic modern look and friendly, laid-back vibe. Exposed stone walls blend with painted timbers, bookshelves and contemporary artwork, and a spiral staircase leads to a mezzanine level above. This is the place to come to experience a range of boldly flavoured modern dishes which mix European and Asian influences. If you like exploring new tastes, there are some adventurous combinations to discover here, but whatever you choose will be eminently satisfying.

Day 2
Start your day with a stroll down to Port Noblessener, a former submarine shipyard, now a vibrant community of apartments, restaurants, shops and cultural venues which are fronted by a beautiful harbour. Here you can visit the various art galleries and the more unusual PROTO Invention Factory, which combines technology prototypes with VR. Next door to the port is the Seaplane Harbour, which is home to the Estonian Maritime Museum.

Lore Bistroo, with its Bib Gourmand award, is the natural choice for lunch. It’s the little sister of Lee in the town centre, and is sited within a cavernous former warehouse which looks out across the harbour. Steel girders, hoists and concrete pillars remind you where you are, and the open kitchen and easy-going young team contribute to the buzzy atmosphere. Tasty, satisfying dishes are inspired by the owner’s peregrinations and are designed for sharing, so order with abandon and sit back and enjoy the view.

After lunch, walk back into the city via the Kalmaja neighbourhood to do a little browsing in the uber-cool Telliskivi Creative City, located within Tallinn’s former industrial complex. Here you’ll find small shops, galleries and various creative companies, as well as over 20 examples of street art. It’s also the hub for cultural events, so you’re likely to find something going on during your visit. At its centre sits the Fotografiska Photography Museum, which houses up to four separate world-class exhibitions at a time.

After taking in your fill of culture, head back to your hotel to get ready for a glamorous night out. The Michelin-recommended Swissôtel is a great place to stay and, whether you're a resident or not, drinks in the bar here are an absolute must, as the panoramic views are breathtaking. Their stylish restaurant, Horisont, is also part of the Michelin selection; it's located on the 30th floor and sports an air of formality that makes you feel special. The food is a great match for the surroundings too, with well-judged European dishes packed full of seasonality and flavour. Push the boat out and go for the tasting menu, which really shows what the kitchen can do.

Day 3
On your final day, make for the Pirita Promenade, which starts in the centre of Tallinn and then makes its way through Kadriorg and the Song Festival Grounds before arriving at the Pirita Marina and Beach. If you have a head for heights, set out for the nearby Tallinn TV Tower, whose 170m observation deck offers the best and most far-reaching views in Tallinn; alternatively, if you prefer to keep your feet firmly on the ground, the Botanical Gardens are just a short walk away.

For lunch, make your way to Bib Gourmand awarded Mantel ja Korsten, a sweet, picture-postcard clapboard house tucked away in a residential area close to the city centre. The traditional exterior is in contrast to the modern interior, with its brightly coloured chairs, banquettes and striking floral wallpaper. Its name translates as ‘mantel and chimney’, and a green-tiled fireplace and mantel take centre stage. Mediterranean-inspired dishes are plated with care and have great clarity of flavour, and there are some superb organic and biodynamic wines available to accompany your meal.

Walk off lunch with a stroll through the historic Kadriorg Park and admire the magnificent baroque palace, then head for Kumu – part of the Art Museum of Estonia – which exhibits Estonian art from the 18C right up to the present day.

For dinner, it’s time to pay a visit to the Rotermann Quarter; here, old industrial buildings have been given a new lease of life, with factories and warehouses now housing museums and restaurants. Head for R14, which sits within an impressive, late-19C stone building that was formerly the industrial power plant. You can’t beat the laid-back vibe of this rustic wine-shop-cum-wine bar, where a glass-walled wine cellar takes centre stage. The menu takes its influences from the Med, with a particular slant towards Italy, and the simply presented dishes are tasty and offer great value for money. If wine’s your thing, allow plenty of time to peruse the list, as there are several hundred options to choose from!