People 2 minutes 05 May 2017

Expert Barbecue Tips From Hawksmoor's Richard Turner

Fire up the grill with with these handy tricks from London's meat maestro.

Tall and burly, Richard Turner is built like a man who can handle fire. So it makes sense that he is executive chef of popular British steakhouse Hawksmoor, co-founder of premium barbecue restaurant Pitt Cue Co and one half of Turner & George, a butcher’s shop and online meat merchant dealing in British-native cattle breeds. He’s also the man behind London’s Meatopia festival, where chefs from around the world gather to grill meats and guzzle beers.

“The term ‘bbq’ is used for two types of cooking,” explains Turner. “In most parts of the world, it refers to any kind of cooking over fire, be it directly or indirectly and over wood or charcoal.

In the United States, however, it refers to low and slow indirect smoking of meat.”

A main difference between cooking meats in a skillet and over a hot flame is an added dimension you get in the latter – aroma, from the smoke. When the meat’s juices drip onto the hot coals, the sugars turn into new flavour compounds that rise and coat the meat.
Photo credit: Pitt Cue Co
Photo credit: Pitt Cue Co

While barbecues have commonly been associated with casual social events, chefs around the world are taking the primitive method of cooking and turning out fancier renditions of smoked-kiss meats.

At Pitt Cue Co in Devonshire Square, London, for instance, the star of the kitchen is a colossal made-in-Michigan grill that weighs in at nearly £61,000 (S$106, 740) where the chefs blast everything from bread to slabs of beef.

In Singapore, Michelin-rated restaurant Burnt Ends uses their grill for smoked quail eggs topped with caviar, and whole roasted fish. 

“BBQ requires attention and skill. Every animal is different, and consequently, every piece of meat is also,” says Turner.

“Combine that with the unpredictability of cooking with a live fire and that’s double the skills required. That said the results are worth the trouble,” he continues. Here, Turner shares some tips on how to fire up the grill.
Start with the right tools

Invest in a BBQ grill that comes with shelving and promises good heat retention (so it requires less charcoal). Also, prepare a set of tongs, a water spray to put out rogue flames, and a temperature probe.
Charcoal and Fire Pitt Cue.jpg
Know the right type of charcoal to buy as well. Briquettes (compressed coal) tend to burn at too high a temperature and contain a kind of glue, so I do not use them. Binchotan is great, but expensive. Lump charcoal or wood are my fuels of choice, and it is important to make sure the lump charcoal was produced without an accelerator and the wood is from either an oak or fruit tree and has been properly dried.
All meats are made equal  

All meats are good for cooking on the grill, although different methods and skills are required for various meats. On a charcoal grill, I always like to have a steak and ribs on - ribs are good on open flames because the smoke adds another dimension to the taste. Or if it's an American barbecue where we are using a big old smoker, I like cuts such as the shoulder or chuck steak because when the muscles break down, more fat and more flavour comes out.
Get that perfect char

If cooking directly over the fire, make sure to keep turning the meat until it gets a nice caramelised tone. Once you've got a nice colour, move the meat to a cooler part of the grill and let it continue cooking at a gentler pace so you don't tense up the muscle fibres.

Invest in meat from the butcher

Buy ethically sourced meat that has been reared over a long period of time (because time makes good meat) and cook the individual cuts according to their muscle structure so it won’t dry out once you cook it. Skip the marinades – good meat doesn’t need it.

Load up on the greens

Finish off the BBQ with some sides. Lightly-dressed raw salads and coleslaw are the best complements to a meat-heavy BBQ. It is essential to have a balanced diet as too much meat can cause fatigue.

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