When news of Tsukiji Market’s closure and relocation first hit the headlines, gourmands around the world were up in arms. It’s by no means a small development and as the hyperbole goes, the flutter of a butterfly’s wings can cause a typhoon across the world.
Japanese chefs perhaps feel it as keenly as the fishermen themselves do, as many have trawled its wet aisles for decades to forge relationships with the suppliers.
“What we learnt in elementary and junior high school was that Tsukiji is known as ‘sekai no daidokoro’,” [kitchen of the world], “which says something about its scale,” says chef Shinji Kanesaka – the man behind the wildly successful group of omakase-style sushi restaurants. “There’s no other fish market in the world as big as this one.”
Japanese chefs perhaps feel it as keenly as the fishermen themselves do, as many have trawled its wet aisles for decades to forge relationships with the suppliers.
“What we learnt in elementary and junior high school was that Tsukiji is known as ‘sekai no daidokoro’,” [kitchen of the world], “which says something about its scale,” says chef Shinji Kanesaka – the man behind the wildly successful group of omakase-style sushi restaurants. “There’s no other fish market in the world as big as this one.”
The chef has a smattering of restaurants from Singapore, Macau and Tokyo, all of which are crowned with Michelin stars. While seafood is often prepared simply to showcase the purity of nature’s bounty, it is access to rare items that puts him leagues ahead over other small scale sushi restaurants.
That feat is only possible thanks to his close relationship with the sellers – one he has built for the 26 years he’s been working as a chef.
“My personal relationship with Tsukiji was built by coming here every day. These suppliers are trying to establish how sincere you are in your intentions,” he explains.
“Every single day, the happiest moment for me is when I procure the best ingredients for my customers.”
That feat is only possible thanks to his close relationship with the sellers – one he has built for the 26 years he’s been working as a chef.
“My personal relationship with Tsukiji was built by coming here every day. These suppliers are trying to establish how sincere you are in your intentions,” he explains.
“Every single day, the happiest moment for me is when I procure the best ingredients for my customers.”
