This charming Indian restaurant gem, set on a quiet Sunnyside street with a flashing neon sign and bright orange awning, is bound to become a neighborhood essential. A somewhat cumbersome menu conceals the true talent behind this kitchen team, which specializes in clearly defined, utterly delicious curries.

The chef hails from Goa so pack your table with everything listed under the “Indo Portuguese” section of the carte. Lamb vindaloo, for instance, is spicy, high-toned in both sweetness and acidity; while the Goan fish curry offers a more creamy, soothing bite. Tandoori lamb chops marinated in yogurt and tamarind arrive wonderfully tender and expertly charred. Servers will steer you right and suggest appropriate heat levels, so heed their advice.