Bad Roman

Social media has turbo-charged this playful opening on the third floor of the Time Warner Center, so don’t be surprised if half the guests are dressed for reality television or if a server keeps calling you “bestie.” But for all of its bluster, the restaurant largely delivers in its promise of fun Italian-American cooking. Who could possibly turn down a warm loaf of garlic babka that eats like a croissant? Who could quibble with the spicy, thoroughly dressed gem Caesar salad? Pasta can be hit or miss, but go all in on the roasted branzino that packs a crisp skin and sits in a bright salsa verde. Desserts like the lemon cheesecake seem made for Instagram; try the layered tiramisu ice cream cake, which is as satisfying as one hopes it might be.