In one of the most bookish streets of the scholarly St André des Arts neighbourhood, Oktobre is warm and welcoming, like an Indian summer. The chef's pantry is stocked with only the finest, painstakingly sourced produce (he buys some animals whole). He takes a fresh, delicate, natural approach to cooking, deftly seasoning his dishes with varied spices and Asian accents. “Dentelles de Cucugnan” cuttlefish pasta with a shellfish bisque; Dombes quail, buckwheat risotto with mushrooms, fig and gochujang pickles; figs topped with a shiso-scented diplomat cream…