Behind an anthracite-grey façade at the end of Avenue Parmentier, Elsass eschews the clichés and offers its own interpretation of Alsace. That means no checked tablecloths or rustic wood-panelled walls in this room with an open kitchen and a few seats at the counter; instead a clean-lined industrial loft-style space (it was previously a garage), softened by light hues of wood and flower arrangements. Everything here revolves around Alsace wines, the only ones on the list, and the modern cuisine that showcases them. The sauerkraut, a nod to the terroir, is served in unexpected ways: in crispy cromesquis or accompanying a house-made boudin blanc sausage and candied pork belly. At the helm, Guillaume Keusch, a food-loving lawyer-turned-restaurateur, has designed a place where tradition and creativity are perfectly allied.