Perhaps chef Satoshi Amitsu (previously at Georges Blanc) is just being modest when he uses the term "semi-gourmet" cuisine on his website, because this bistro with an alluring red frontage easily holds its own against other restaurants. Deploying the precision for which the Japanese are renowned, the chef delights diners with French cuisine replete with colours and contrasts, backed up by meticulous jus and sauces: flame-charred mackerel, fregola sarda, beetroot, raspberry, walnut and shiso vinaigrette; veal, mushrooms, chervil root, quince condiment, full-bodied gravy. There's a good selection of wines by the glass, not just the usual favourites, with expert advice from the service team.