After many years at Le Parc des Crayères, ‘Meilleur Ouvrier de France’ Philippe Mille has set up shop in this stylish abode dating back to 1874. In a contemporary interior done out in natural shades and strewn with references to the vineyards of Champagne, the chef from Sarthe finetunes a culinary vision that is rooted in the Champagne terroir. He cooks over vine branches and draws inspiration from the seven grape varieties (including Arbane), to which he adds first-class seafood ingredients (monkfish, turbot, lobster etc). He signs dishes of breathtaking precision demonstrating standout talent when it comes to pepper and exquisitely discreet hints of refreshing citrus fruit. The champagne list is naturally of interest, and the plush upstairs lounge sports a sculpture by a famous Reims-based master glassmaker.