It takes effort to visit this remarkable little noodle bar, as it’s located in deep industrial West Oakland, open only at dinner and waits can run upwards of 45 minutes—if the designated 100 daily orders of soba don’t sell out first. But rest easy as this delay is happily passed with a drink in the sunny garden, and the warm hospitality rewards the hassle.

Handmade Japanese noodles come in two varieties: 100% or 90% buckwheat, served hot or cold in dishes like tenseiro, chewy cold soba with feather-light tempura shrimp and vegetables alongside a flavorful dipping sauce. For something warmer, kamo nanban, a rich broth with tender slices of duck breast, hits the spot. Be sure to sample the sake, served here in the traditional “overflowing” style.