Close to Rennes, on the banks of the River Vilaine, this granite building is worthy of our full attention. Owners Sylvain and Marie-Pierre Guillemot met while working for Alain Passard. Sylvain prides himself on his "instinctive, up-to-the-minute cuisine", drawing on regional produce with a sense of invention and real technical skill. He particularly cherishes his relationships with his producer friends, from whom he sources seaweed, chilli, ginger, poultry and, of course, butter. The elegant and light-filled interior, the terrace overlooking the river, and the lovely service add to the pleasure of this gourmet interlude. Very fine wine list.