The story of Vitantonio Lombardo captures the essence of Matera – an old abandoned cave has been converted into an elegant dining room and transformed into one of the town’s most successful gourmet restaurants. Situated in the heart of the Sassi district, the restaurant enjoys the perfect location for a post-dinner stroll through one of Italy’s most charming historic centres, especially at night when the soft light gives the town a haunting appearance when viewed from the belvedere at Piazza Duomo. The chef demonstrates a strong connection with the region through his cuisine, often choosing recipes and ingredients from Lucania and then interpreting these with a freedom that results in personalised and creative dishes. His creations (some of which are long-established old favourites) showcase the traditions of the region in a way that also appeals to the tastes of contemporary diners (many of whom are from outside Italy), ably assisted by the excellent Donato, his long-time colleague front of house. We particularly enjoyed the tuna tartare with a “corteccia di crapiata” (a local green soup which he serves with a crispy texture), smoked olive oil and red onion ice-cream; the “calamarro” (squid stuffed with lamb entrails) and the “Monte Crusko” dessert with its elegant crusco pepper ice-cream.